Universal Game Pieces - Blank and Numbered set

These are universally useful game pieces for table top RPGs or board games. They have an identifiable “front” and “back” for games where indicating direction matters. Pieces can be scaled up or down in the slicer to match any board grid size you intend to use them for, or for large-size characters and enemies. 

The set includes pieces: 

• Blank
• Numbers 1-9  
• Letters A, B, C, and X. 
• Symbols “!”, and “?”

But why?

• Lost some pieces to your 60-year-old copy of “Yacht Race”? 
  • No problem. 
• Can't find the right minifig to print for your friend's Half-Orc Half-Gnome Paladin that dual wields spiky Yo-yos? 
  • It sure looks like one to me! 
• Don't have time to individually paint 8 murlock warrior mini's and a giant rock lobster figure for tomorrow's big fight that you SWARE you are going to use more then once?  
  • Who does?

You'd be surprised how invested players get when you put down a 300% sized game piece that just has “!”  written on it."

Print tips

Because the top and bottom faces aren't parallel it's best to print the pieces “face down” or number side down on the bed. This way the face the players will actually be looking at during play will be the side that was printed smooth on the flat of the bed. 

While the faces are down you might also want to increase the number of “bottom faces” to make sure the face is acceptably opaque depending on your filament. 

Aligning the Z-seam on the “front” edge of the pieces hides the seam pretty well.

The numbers and letters are embossed enough so it should be pretty easy to paint them in to make them more readable, and if you get any on the top face, just sand the face smooth and clean. 800 grit sandpaper as a finial step leaves a nice surface on PLA in my opinion. 

If you don't feel like painting anything you could set up filament changes in the slicer when it gets to the “bottom” layer of the numbers or any other shenanigans you think up.

Uploaded G-Code files

I uploaded three G-code files set to print on a machine speced like an Ender-3/5/cr10 (single extruder). All of which adhere to the recommendations I made in the previous section, print at 200°C on the hot end, and with at 70°C heated bed for the initial layer and 62°C for the duration. 

1. One blank game piece printed in a solid color.
2. One blank game piece with a manual filament change at layer 20 to make multi-colored pieces like the ones pictures with a single extruder machine. 
3. Set of all the numbered and letter-embossed game pieces that print in a solid color.