1 / 2
Lever n°2 for Virpil/Thrustmaster Joystick Grips
Zamów wydruk tego modelu
Obliczymy ostateczną cenę na podstawie wybranego pliku. Sprawdzisz ją i zaakceptujesz przed płatnością.
Zapisane na tym urządzeniu.
Lever for Virpil/Thrustmaster Joysticks
- Ocena
- 0 / 5
- Polubienia
- 7
- Pobrania
- 46
- Wydruki
- 0
- Wyświetlenia
- 692
- Oceny
- 0
Aktualizacja u źródła:
Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- Video Games
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
SzczegółyPliki (6)Wydruki i komentarze (Wydruki: 0) (Komentarze: 0)Remiksy (1)Kolekcje (16)Powiązane
Press Like for encouragement. Comment for improvement.
The lever has been moved to the right to give way to a lever/switch on the grip.
Materials:
- M3x 10mm bolt + nut.
- M3x 16mm bolt + nut.
- an optional compression spring (5mm in diameter, 20mm in length and 0.8mm wire diameter).
- a rotary potentiometer.
- a 5-pin JST PH male connector (plugged into the Virpil base).
Electronics:
Plug the potentiometer wires either:
- on an Arduino Leonardo/Pro Micro, get the joystick library and follow the examples in Arduino tutorial chapter 3.
- on a Leo Bodnar BU0836,
- on the Virpil base board:
- Check first if your circuit board looks like mine on the picture.
- On the joystick's base, look at the bigger circuit board. Look for the 2x 4-pin connectors (1 on each side, each one for a hall effect sensor) There are 2 free pins next to them. That's where the signal from the potentiometer goes. Take the + and the ground from the free “AUX” 5-pin connector. Check the picture for more details.
- When the wiring is done and the grip is connected, open the VPC Configuration Tool, define 2 new axis (double click on a free axis) and calibrate them. That's it. Just take your time, it's easy.
Notes:
- If you own a Virpil, this variant is more resilient.
- 3D-printed plastic isn't as resilient as the grip.
If you can make the structural parts out of resin: do. If it's not an option: use PLA or better, choose at least 90% infill and print the parts with an angle (potential crack to filament layer). Adapt the joystick response curves so you don't yank your stick like a mad man. Then it'll be fine.