Ford Flex Lane-Keeping Assist / Auto-Highbeam Adapter

Adapter to fit Ford's twist-attach rearview mirrors to 2013-2019 Ford Flex to add Lane Departure Warning (LDW), Lane Keeping Assistance (LKA), and Automatic High-Beams (AHB). Capitalized italics indicate the name of a printed part ("Visual Guide", "Vinyl Template"). "Mirror Body" refers to the aluminum structure between the mirror and the camera.

Parts needed:

• Rearview mirror from a 2013-2019 Ford Explorer, Ford Taurus, Lincoln MKS, or Lincoln MKT. I've had good luck searching eBay for '2016 mkt rearview' and filtering Used condition. Most are $75 or less.

Some sellers list AHB-only mirrors as LKA -- verify the mirror has a 1cm circular camera lens on the front or AHBC/LA in the plastic! Mirrors from the Fusion/Escape/etc look very similar but the body is longer and will not work with this design.

• 6-32 x 3/4" screws, qty 3
• M4 x 25mm screws, qty 5
• M4 heat-set insert nuts - print was designed around M4 x 12mm x 6mm
• JB Weld (or similar epoxy)
• Oracal 651 Permanent Vinyl, Matte Black
• Wire suitable for automotive use, 18awg or so.
• Tactile pushbutton, momentary contact, 6mm or so length (Technically optional, used to enable/disable while driving).
• Molex Connectors are a good idea to make connections. At least 4 pins are required. This isn't necessary if the mirror you purchase included a cut section of the wires from the headliner.
• Aluminum sheeting, 3mm or 6mm, if needed.See Riser Details section for more information

Tools Needed

• Soldering supplies
• Scalpel with extra blades
• Torx driver, T10/T15/T20 -- I don't recall exactly what size the camera has.
• FORscan USB adapter cable. OBDLink EX is best but the $15 generics will work as well.
• Metalworking supplies, if needed (See Riser Details for more information)

Printed Parts

Album demonstrating print orientations and settings

*Vinyl Template -- Used as a guide for aligning the main adapter, as well as trimming the vinyl. Hole in the middle is for the factory mirror mount. *Camera Spacer -- Used to supportVisual Guide and move the camera closer to the windshield. 5+ walls, 50%+ infill, with supports. *Visual Guide -- This will be visible through the windshield. 3+ walls, 20% infill, with supports. Orient with the 'camera' looking upwards (standing on legs), with raft. For better results, print with Cura 'Fuzzy Skin' (0.08 Density, 0.16 Distance) *Lower Cover -- Covers the whole assembly. 2 walls, 20% infill, with supports. For best results, print with same Fuzzy Skin settings as above and orient part so the part closest to the mirror is facing down (90° from how it will install, pointing up). *Upper Cover -- Same asLower Cover. Print with a raft. *Locking Tab -- Used to keep the mirror from rotating back out. 2+ walls, 20% infill. *C911 Adapter -- Optional, a rough attempt at a printable means of using Dupont male jumpers to connect to the mirror's C911 in lieu of Molex connectors.

Riser Details

There are several different versions of the Riser piece available.

Print _Base.stl in a strong, temperature-resistant material such as PETG. 6+ walls, 50% infill, supports as needed.

Style A:

Riser_StyleA_Solid.stl

If you can print something stronger than PETG, possibly Polycarbonate. The mirror is heavy and has a small surface area to grip.Untested, I do not know if any printable material is strong enough for this application.

Style B:

Riser_StyleB_Base.stl -- PETG

Riser_StyleB_Metal.stl / Riser_StyleB_Metal.dxf -- Either hand-cut or CNC-cut on 1/8" (3mm) aluminum sheet.

Style C:

Riser_StyleC_Base.stl -- PETG

Riser_StyleC_Metal.stl -- CNC-cut on 1/4" (6mm) aluminum sheet.

Comparison between Style C (left) and Style B (right)

Post-Processing

BothRiser andCamera Spacer require the heat-set threads pushed in using a soldering iron.

WithRiser, insert the screws from the top to keep the heat-sets aligned as you push them in to the plastic. Heat-sets, starting position After insertion After grinding away excess material

WithCamera Spacer, insert the heat-sets on the chamfered side (side with notch cut out)

Apply some form of tape to the upper edges ofVisual Guide, such as microfiber wire tape or electrical tape. This will help prevent the plastic from scratching the vinyl. Microfiber tape applied

If usingRiser style B or C, attach your metal piece toRiser base using three M4 x 25mm screws.

Test the difficulty in attaching the mirror to the riser. It should be snug, but nottoo snug. Use pliers to adjust the mirror's 'metal grip' as needed. Style C assembled Style B attached to mirror

⚠️ The camera ribbon cable is very fragile! ⚠️

Unscrew the camera from the front of the mirror.

Carefully insertCamera Spacer between the camera and housing.

Reattach the camera, using the three 6-32 x 3/4" screws. Ensure the camera is sitting flush against the print.

Temporarily attachVisual Guide toCamera Spacer using the two remaining 4x25mm screws. Ensure the camera lens is centered in Visual Guide. Adjust as needed.

RemoveVisual Guide for now. Camera Spacer andVisual Guide attached and centered

Prep the mirror - Wiring

The mirror will require a connection to +12v power, ground, and HS-CAN.

On most mirrors, Pin 1 (Violet/Brown) is +12v, Pin 8 (Black) is Ground, Pin 14 (White/Blue) is HS-CAN+, Pin 15 (White) is HS-CAN-, and Pin 10 (Green/Orange) is the Enable/Disable switch.

On my mirror, I carefully removed the plastic trim ring around the glass, removed the internals, and drilled a small hole in the top of the mirror. I soldered one side of the tactile switch to Green/Orange and the other to Black. Then, glued the switch to that hole.

Solder up the molex connector if necessary, giving yourself plenty of wire to wherever you plan on getting power and HS-CAN connection. Optionally, you can try using male Dupont connectors and C911_Adapter.stl + C911_Latch.stl to create a compatible harness. C911 Adapter C911 Adapter, attached

Prep the windshield

Remove your existing rearview mirror. The metal mounting tab can stay on the glass. See my other designs for a tool that may help.

Remove the rain sensor cover, if equipped. Pulls straight off, no clips involved.

Thoroughly clean the windshield inside using isopropyl and a nonwoven wipe -- the goal is to have zero dust on the glass when applying vinyl.

Cut two pieces of vinyl usingVinyl Template as a rough guide -- the seam will be at the top of the existing metal tab.

Make these pieces 2-3" larger than needed so your fingerprints will be on the part getting trimmed off. Do not cut the trapezoid out.

In as clean of an environment as possible, apply the upper vinyl to the inside of the windshield, followed by the lower vinyl. Start from the top and slowly work your way down, running your finger back and forth to apply as evenly as possible. Do everything within your power to avoid getting dust or bubbles in the portions that won't be trimmed. Use transfer paper if necessary. The vinyl will look uneven from the outside for the first couple hours. As long as there's no dust or bubbles, it should even out.

Once you're satisfied with the vinyl application, tapeVinyl Template to the windshield. As best as possible, use the ceramic dots embedded on the glass to help alignVinyl Template vertically. A high powered flashlight helps. Use as much tape as necessary to keep this piece in place.

Mirror Installation

*Update 8/3/2022: It seems that in direct sunlight, the vinyl will eventually let go of the windshield glass. It may be necessary to use theVinyl Template* to also cut whereRiser will be attached to the windshield and JBweld theRiser directly to the glass**

Cover the dashboard with an old towel in case of drips.

Mix and apply JB Weld epoxy to the assembledWindshield Adapter. Glue this to the windshield, using theVinyl Template to align it vertically. Hold it in place for at least 5 minutes, then use more tape to hold it overnight.

Use a scalpel to carefully trim the vinyl. Try to stay consistent to avoid misaligned edges. Trim both the trapezoid and outer edge of the template. I trimmed the trapezoid, then applied tape inside the trapezoid so I could remove the tape on the outside without moving the template. If something goes wrong, remove the lower of the two vinyl pieces you applied to the windshield. Replace with a new piece and trim again. RemoveVinyl Template once all cuts are completed. Remove unneeded vinyl from the windshield.

After theWindshield Adapter has fully cured, carefully twist your new rearview mirror onto it, holding the base for stability. Check that your camera is centered in the trapezoid window you cut into the vinyl.

If you're satisfied with alignment, insert theLocking Tab on the passenger side, slid down into the body of the mirror.

Ideally, the mirror should not be able to rotate in either direction and the 'tower' onWindshield Adapter should line up with a visible casting seam in the mirror body. If you glued theWindshield Adapter on crooked, you may need to adjust the aluminum piece or apply tape to theLocking Tab.

With the camera lens centered in the trapezoid, attachVisual Guide again.

Attach theLower Cover. It should try to clip onto the mirror and squeezes againstCamera Spacer.

Check theLower Cover alignment relative to the vinyl. The vinyl should be relatively even all the way around, extending ~3mm past theLower Cover in each direction. *The gap between theLower Cover* and glass is intentional, to help prevent fogging.**

Attach theUpper Cover to theLower Cover.

Reinstall the rain sensor cover, if equipped.

If you need to remove theLower Cover, remove the rain sensor cover andUpper Cover. Hold the mirror body as you spread theLower Cover off the clips on one side, then the other.

Installed Mirror Wiring

Provide the mirror with 12v Ignition (Switched) power and HS-CAN connection. I used an APIM extension cable behind the radio but these are harder to find in 2021. HS-CAN can be connected to the OBDII port, an Add-a-Fuse can be used for 12v ignition power.

FORscan AsBuilt Changes

You should be familiar with Forscan; I'm not responsible if something goes wrong.Always make a backup of any modules you change. Settings listed belowe were relevant to my 2016 Flex 303A (equipped with Adaptive Cruise Control), your needed values may be different.

When connecting for the first time, Forscan will ask if it's a Flex or MKT.You must select MKT -- it will not search for IPMA if you select Flex. If you have a previous saved profile, do not load it, as the saved profile won't have IPMA.

IPC

720-01-03 Bxxx xxxx xx (was 9) - Enable Auto-Highbeam

720-01-03 xxxx x4xx (was 0) - Enables Lane-Keeping

720-01-02 xxxx Fxx xx (was E) - Enable Driver Alert (Optional)

PSCM

730-02-01 xxxx x1xx xxxx (was 0) - Enables Lane-Keeping

IPMA

706-01-01 8x00 xxxx xxxx - Driver Assist Enable, Physical lanekeeping switch, No Windshield Heater

706-04-01 C2xx xx8x xx - Enable systems, sensitivity level 3. The 8 switches to 0 when the lanekeeping button is pressed.

Once everything is ready, find a nice straight road with clear lane markings.

Begin the IPMA Lane Camera calibration procedure in Forscan. Follow the prompts and at 30%, a large dialog will appear on-screen with instructions.

Do not dismiss this dialog. Continue driving in a steady manner, keeping your vehicle centered in the lane, for 10 minutes.

After a few miles you should get lane markings on your left instrument cluster.

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*Updated 2022-Mar-20: Replaced all files with latest versions, new photos, added missing AsBuilt for autohighbeams, rewrote some sections for legibility

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

200

Infill:

38

Filament: PolyMaker PETG

Category: Automotive