D&D SciFi Rocket Dice Tower

This model will be a great addition to your D&D tabletop adventures. Just unscrew the nose-cone and put down on the table a toss your dice in.   

I have two different models the “Screw Top and Porthole” and a launch pad (Pad # N20 ) to contain your rolls. If you want a little more detail, you can check out Makers Anvil's crater model here to give that planetary effect.

The both versions look great as a models, but take them to your next game and have a fun time rolling all those nat 20's. If you don't want to keep up with the screw top, just print the “Porthole” version.

I have provided the STEP files if you would like to modify this model as well

Printing

Print all parts upright with the Rocket body on it's fins with support just for the round sections on the nozzle. The gcode files have this already. 

Filament - PLA is perfect

Infill - 15%

Layer Height - .20mm Slower is better

Supports - Only under the exhaust nozzle and fins for the rocket body. The nose cone does not need supports if you use PLA. If do use supports on this part, you may not be able to get them off without ruining the part.

Parimeters - 6 work well

Additional Parts - None

Bed Adhesion - When printing Pad “N20”  make sure you get a really nice first layer and maybe some glue stick as this is a fairly large surface and sometimes it wants to peel up and ruin your print.

Rafts - You'll want to use rafts on either rocket body as the fins have such a small surface area

Scaling - Just a note on scaling, when scaling up you can go as high as 150% on the Ender 3 and 140% on the Prusa i3 MK3s+ (Keep in mind the Porthole version is taller so you have to scale it less". Unless you just want a smaller non-functional model, you can also scale down, but any smaller than 100% and your model probably will not function as a dice tower. I printed the Porthole model in the picture at 115% and it's beautiful and works great. You may want to print a landing pad N20 at the same scale to sit it on.

Filament Change - There is a filament change in the in the Pad “N20” to put contrasting filaments to make the text stand out.

Post Printing Notes:  There may be some artifacting from the internal structure and slower printing can help, but you will probably see some on your model. You can put some stickers to hide the lines, but I think it looks cool, so I don't do anything about them. Also, the model with the hole in the back “Porthole version”,  shows this on the lower part of the model prominently as the upper portion contains a large hole. 
 

Happy Printing!

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Please leave a comment and let me know how you like this model. 

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