Mini Lathe Tailstock DRO

Precise drilling was a must for what I plan with my minilathe… but I didn't want to shell out for a tailstock DRO Handweel … so I decided to build this. Inspired by a couple of youtube Vids I designed my own version. It angles the caliper-display 45deg for easy viewing. 

Required Components:
- Composite Digital Caliper (Really Cheap on Amazon or even cheaper on Ali if you can wait)
- 8 (or 7 if only populating one spot on clamp) M3 heatset-inserts
- 4 M3x8 FHCS
- 2 M3x12 SHCS
- 2 M3x25 SHCS (or 1 if only populating one spot on clamp)
- A dab of CA (high viscosity is highly recommended) and some activator

Print Instructions:
- Layer Height: 0.2mm 
- Nozzle: 0.4mm
- Infill: Triangles min 15% or gyroid.
- Tops/Bottoms: 4
- Borders: 4
- Brim: Recommended for Backclip and Baseplate
- Plastic: PLA

Assembly:

1. Press Heatsets in all Holes on the Baseplate and unmarked holes ( or unmarked hole closer to hole if only using one) on clamp. 
2. Prefit M3x25s on clamp through marked holes
3. Retract tailstock and put clamp on rod. Don't tighten screws to tight needs to be able to rotate.
4. Attach back-clips to baseplate with M3x12 screws but don't tighten. 
5. Put assembly on tailstock and align with front. Tighten Screws.
6. Remove Parts of caliper other than the scale and the housing and cut scale to length.
7. Testfit caliper with caliper-plate (some tlc with a file may be needed since dimensional tollerances on the housings are terrible) should your calipers not fit you can design your own baseplate with a hole pattern of 20x15 dimensioned from center lines. 
8. Attach caliper plate to baseplate with 4 M3x8 FHCS. 
9. Testfit caliper with clamp and baseplate and test sliding action and wether or not the battery can still be exchanged. If everything is ok put a couple of dots of CA on the backside of the caliper and some activator on the baseplate and fix until dry. Do the same with the front of the scale and the clamp. 
10. DONE! You now have a working DRO!