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Jellyfish fairy light baubles — zdjęcie 1
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Jellyfish fairy light baubles

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Customizable jellyfish baubles for a cheap LED light set, with tentacles created by printing unsupported loops

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Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
Home Decor
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

Jellyfish fairy light baubles — Flying Tiger light strings

This is a remix of Jellyfish customizable - drooloops (on Thingiverse) to create hollow baubles which attach to cheap (5€ or so) battery-powered light strings available in many countries from the Danish discount shop “Flying Tiger”, and similar lights from supermarkets etc.

1. Buy the lights.

Do this first!  Flying Tiger sell several designs, but many of them share the same basic light string design.

  • Look for a light string with baubles (or pumpkins, or skulls, …) attached with small, rubber grommets.  It's easy to replace the baubles while reusing the rubber grommets. The two designs shown here are perfect.
     
  • 10 lights from two AA batteries will be brighter than 20 lights from three AA batteries. Sets with 50, 80, 100+ lights are likely to be too dim.
  • If you can only find different lights, you may be able to modify the holes in the jellyfish to make them fit.

2. Print settings

Use the 3MF file if you wish to re-slice the module.

The 3MF file and the G-code files include custom G-code to switch off the fan when the tentacles and loops facing forward are printed.  They also have a 0.8mm extrusion width set for the tentacles to make them stronger.  There's a beep programmed in before the tentacles are printed — you might want to watch to see they don't curl upwards and get caught on the extruder.

You can edit the model using OpenSCAD, and if you do you'll probably need to adjust these settings.

3. Colour

In case you don't have transparent filament in several colours, you can use marker pens to colour some of the LEDs.  Do this with the grommet fitted, so it doesn't rub off the ink as you replace it.

4. Post a make

If your filament gives a good result, please post a comment or a make mentioning the brand.

I used Spectrum Natural PLA, Amolen Glow-in-the-dark Green PLA and Prusament Transparent Blue PETG. The PLA gave better results than PETG, which seemed to solidify too quickly.

The red and green lights in my photo are coloured using marker pens on the LED.

5. Credit

Credit to petersm for creating the original model and especially for sharing the source code.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:243994

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