Filament dry box storage - simple tupperware box (source included)

This is a very simple and cheap solution with a guide to make many storage boxes compatible. 

See below the whole how-to guide

TODO: 

• Links to Amazon / Aliexpress
• Attention: At the moment there is feedback that the length of the roll(s) could be incorrect. Please check this in your slicer before you print it. I will check it next weekend and adjust it to the correct length. 

Focus of the design

• Easy and fast to print (no support where possible).
• You can use any filament type, no need for special filament (PLA, PETG, ASA, etc.).
• Use of silica gel.
• Optional use of ball bearings to make it smoother.
• Alignment tool for easy build.
• Designed the way you can use it with many storage boxes.
• Source included: if something shouldn't fit your storage box you can A) tell me what you need or B) just create your own adaptation.
• Use as storage an directly print from this box but without air coming into the box.
• Tested with eSun, Prusament, Geeetech 1KG filament rolls.
• No screws or additional hardware

Idea and inspiration

I know that there are many similar design out there. I don't remember from where I got the inspiration. I know that I tried many of them and I was never really happy (to complicated, fancy etc.) or something did not match my storage boxes.

Important READ THIS FIRST - Storage Box
All the 4L storage boxes have different dimensions. Sometimes the dimensions on Amazon are not even correct. I bought 2x4 pieces with only 2-4 weeks apart. Same product, same vendor - but the dimensions where not exactly the same. Therefore I use the heat-gun to make it fit. Normally the outer dimension don't change, but the one inside - like the part that makes it easier to hold. You need to be aware of this and have a heat-gun ready to make such adjustment. Otherwise this design is not for you. Don't give me a bad review because your box doesn't fit - make it fit. We are tinkerer and don't see problems, only challenges that need a solution :)

Go for a storage box with minimum 4L and a airtight sealing. 

Example: https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B086QDFWX3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

BOM (Bill of material for one box)

Tools needed

Mod - no-Drill Plug version

If you don't want to drill you can check if this mod works for you

https://www.printables.com/model/270978-dry-box-plug

Additional material information

Storage Box

There are many storage boxes available that are too tight at one place (to make it easier to hold). You can just use a heat gun to make it flexible (temporary) and press it outwards. This is a work of 5min per box and makes the cheapest box compatible. I had the experience that even the same “brand” box from the same seller can have small changes in dimension. I ordered two times the same boxes (even from the same link) and they were not the same. As I said, just use the heat gun :)

Adapter

The adapter should be able to fit a 6mm (OD) PTFE/TEFLON tube. You need 2 Adapter per box

PTFE/TEFLON tube

The tube shouldn't have any friction but doesn't have to be heat resistant. The cheapest PTFE tube you can get will do the job. Just be sure that OD (outer diameter) and ID (inner diameter) correspond to the dimensions you like to use. I used OD 6mm and ID 4mm

Silica gel

It's highly recommended to buy silica gel with an indicator (yellow turns into black/green if wet). Just buy a 1KG or 5KG bag so you have enough for all your boxes. Don't rely on the small bags that are shipped with the filament.

Print Information

• Side holder: Use any standard settings and variable layer height
• Bearing holder: Use 3 perimeters and 25% infill. I used PLA and PETG, both works (of course any other material will too). Variable layer height works too. If the bearings don't fit (depends on your printers tolerance) you can use “external perimeter first “ to see if it helps. This part is the one under ”stress / load" so it is wise to print with more perimeters and infill as on standard settings.
• Only for the “bearing-holder” support needed. Print it vertically to make sure the round part is smooth.
• Alignement tool: use standard settings and variable layer height

Printed parts

• 2x side holder. I used 7mm and 5mm, depending on the box. The smaller you go the better for wide spools. 
• 1x Bearing holder. check the length inside the box. Same box, same vendor 4 weeks apart: 74mm and 82mm needed. Just to point out to check it twice before you print it
• Optional: 1x alignment tool

Guide

Box - heat gun treatment

Check if your box has the right dimensions. Probably there will be a part where your filament roll won't move smoothly. This is (unfortunately) typically. Now use your heat-gun to heat the part up where your spool needs more tolerance. Go for 1-2min (set a timer) and see, if you can deform it into de desired state. Make sure you have some protection for your hands and of course your table etc. 

Important

• Make sure the plastic doesn't melt to much. Only until the point it it is flexible and can be formed.
• Protect your hand(s) and your environment from burn damage

box - 2 holes drill

Drill two holes in the box. I used 9mm for my PC-coupler(PC6-01). Make sure that you clear the hole from all debris. 

Where to place the holes: Ad a spool (preferred empty) in the box and close it. Make sure that you put the two holes in a way, that A) the box can be closed and stays closed, B) that it is higher then the silica gel, C) the filament has more or less a path that is straight.

If you need help, just tell me what information you need and I will add it to the guide. 

Make sure you can close the box BEFORE you drill or screw it in. Here I made some mistakes with the measuring - but lucky me it still fits.

Adapter Part 1 - Mount 2 adapter

The PC6-01 adapter are a bit bigger then the hole (intended). You have to screw the adapter in to the hole with force. This makes sure, the adapter has a good hold and won't get lose later. It also helps to keep air out. The best is to use some tools to push and screw it in. This was the part, that needed the most time.

Adapter Part 2 - seal it

Just use hot glue inside the holder to put it around the adapter. With this you kind of seal it against air.

Before you start using  hot glue, make sure you read the hole guide (now you need it for other task to). With this you can do all in one step.

Add the holders (2 pieces)

I made an “alignment” tool that will help you in this process. It worked with 2 different 4L boxes I got from Amazon. Please check that it works with your box too before you glue anything. The idea:

• The guide must be glued inside the box in a way, that the filament spool can rotate freely (in the air) without touching the top or the bottom (or the silica gel on the bottom). 
• Because inside the spool the Bearing-holder will not be in the middle of the spool (because of the smaller size), the holder must be placed higher then the middle. 
• Place the alignment tool inside the box. Now you can add the holder inside it and put it there where you want it. Now from outside (!) the box you can use a marker and mark it. Do this for both side. Now check if it's more or less straight and if it looks reasonable. 
• Glue it. Use a lot of glue. 

Tips if it won't stick

• Use a file  / rasp to rough the holder side you want to glue. Do the same inside the box. You can also use sandpaper (800, 400) to get the same result. This is only in a worst-case scenario where your hot glue is not sticking well to the filament or the box
• Don't press it to hard on the box. The box shouldn't deform. Otherwise the hot glue is under tension. 

Create the plug

When you are printing from this spool holder, you want to close the adapter that is open (normally the bottom one). For this you just cut a piece 3-5cm of the same tube you use for the filament guide and add now hot glue inside it. It's very easy and cheap. Just make 2-3 of them to be on the safe side. 

You are not allowed to upload my model on any other platform,without my permission. The same goes for a remix of my models.