D20 Dice Holder Remix - V1
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Dla pliku: d20-top_02mm_pla_mk3s_2h40m.gcode
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Średnia wycena orientacyjna: 2,54 € netto (środek widełek).
- Masa podana przez autora
- 29 g
- Czas druku podany przez autora
- 2,67 godz.
- Materiał u źródła
- PLA
- Materiał wyceny
- PLA
- Drukarka wyceny
- Bambu Lab P1S - 0.4 nozzle
- Proces wyceny
- 0.20mm Standard
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Zapisane na tym urządzeniu.
I'm calling this a "dice holder" here because that is what the original on which I based this re-mix was called.
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- Wyświetlenia
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Aktualizacja u źródła:
Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- Sculptures
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Public Domain
I'm calling this a "dice holder" here because that is what the original on which I based this re-mix was called. But it's really just a lidded box in the shape of a D20 die which you can use for whatever you want. I'm also calling this Version 1 because I might make some other versions (but then again I might not).
Why the re-mix? Well, the original is pretty good and has some nice features, but I had some ideas I wanted to try out (plus I'm still working to improve my 3D CAD skills). My re-mix is simpler than the original - it uses about half the material and prints almost twice as fast. Unlike the double-walled original my re-mix has a single wall, so it is not quite as sturdy, although I think it is adequate to the task. Also, the lid is a simple "socket fit" - no magnets required. There are no registration pins on the lid so it is possible to put the lid on the "wrong" way (but also obvious); I decided against registration pins based on the KISS principle.
A note on the CAD photos : In one of the photos I show the box and lid in two different colors - this is just to clearly show the two different parts. My preference is to print the box and lid in all one color, but the nice thing about making your own is that you can do whatever you want!
The OnShape 3D CAD files for this are available here:
Print instructions
Print in PLA using the 3mf files provided; otherwise :
- infill = 0%
- perimeters = 4
I also used variable layer height on the first few layers to get a better transition.
Print the bottom piece bottom down, and the top piece top down.
Brim : I recommend NOT using a brim because the bottom layer does not come out as nicely. However, I did have a failed print due to lack of bed adhesion, so I addressed this issue by using a glue-stick ( a few dabs of glue along with wiping with a bit of ethyl alcohol to make a smooth even layer).
Supports : I was able to print both parts without using supports, although the "2, 14, 8" on the top piece and the "13, 19, 7" on the bottom piece had some minor issues - these are the sides with the shallowest angles. It might be worthwhile to add some support enforcers at these locations.,