DIYson knock-off lamp
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Redesign of for easy printing, easy assembly and easy wiring of far more perfect and elaborate lamp by Steven Bennett
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- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
I really love the work and yotube channel by Steven Bennett, but his desigh is far too elaborate for me to be able to replcate. So I modelled from scratch a knock-off version for more basic and more available components.
Steven Bennetts youtube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/@StevenBennettMakes
The model is created for 20x20 mm aluminium profiles, modelled are 700 mm long pieces (which I have on my desk) but I'd recommend shorter (500-600 mm).
As light source, following basic LED bulb (12V) is used with corresponding socket (type MR16), links as an examples only, no affiliation:
https://www.ledlumin.cz/led-bodovky-mr16-gu5-3/led-bodovka-mr16--7w--12v--studena-bila/
https://www.ledlumin.cz/ostatni-prislusenstvi/keramicka-patice-narva-mr16/
The rollers, the pulley and the belt are standard 3D printer / openbuilds style components. Bolts are standard metric types. Bearings in the base are 626 type, 2Z recommended. You'll get more detail from the .step assembly.
It is recommended to print high number of perimeters (4+) with material not succeptible to creep as the components (the central cross espetially) are under constant stress. The bulp doesn't get hot, so PETG is oveall optimal material for the print.
Wiring wise, I personally hard wired 12 V power source with textile covered cord through the horizontal profile directly to the switch, which disconnects the +12 V wire (switch-on position is UP!).
The contra weight is to be filled with lead balls, smaller the better (but it needs to be filled completely). The belt goes through openings in the main cross and the contraweight and is secured with superglue (hold mainly in it's slots, superglue is more for safety).
A big difference from the “original” DIYson lamp is a lack of eccentric nuts. Used are only 7 mm (or 8 mm or whatever is on your hand) spacer tubes and the screws go directly to threaded holes in the central cross - no nuts at all, the screws are loaded laterally, not axially, so threaded print was the way to go. The pretension for smooth movement without any play comes from preloaded hole pattern on the central cross (it needs to deform a bit for the rollers to slide on the profiles - some scalling may be needet to fit your specific profiles).
Feel free to ask anything, good luck with your prints, photos are appreciated!