1994 Harold the Helicopter
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Slightly re-designed for 1994, this 1993-based model of Harold the Helicopter had the longest production run.
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Other helicopters in the series:
Making a new 1994 Harold Helicopter
The helicopter consists of four parts: Body, Tail, Skids, and Propeller. They attach using #6 pan head and flat head screws. Read the description for the suggested screw type and length. Stainless steel screws (18-8) are my favorite. You should have no problem sourcing these from a hardware store.
| File Name | Description |
| 1994 Body (Mod Fillet PinHoles12).stl | This is the recommended body. Print it on a side, and enable automatic supports. They will support the fillet around the body and two large pin holes for the tail. However, make sure to delete supports for the five smaller screw holes: one on top for the propeller, one for the tail, and three holes under the body for the skids and an optional magnet. |
| 1994 Body (+Tail).stl | If your child likes to hold the helicopter in the mouth by the tail, you might want this version of the body. It has an integrated tail without the fins. Print it on a side, and enable automatic supports to support the fillet around the body. Then, delete supports for all four screw holes: one on top and three on the bottom. |
| 1994 Tail (Mod Normal Shallow Pins12 Top Side).stl | This is the recommended tail. It is designed to be attached to the body with a 1¼" or 1½" long #6 pan head screw. Print the tail on its “tail”, with pins pointing up. You can enable automatic supports, but the only thing that needs support is the sunk hole for the head of the screw. |
| 1994 Skids (Mod 1994 Normal Solid NoMag NoCut).stl | Recommended skids with solid runners. Print in a natural position with runners on the build plate. Enable automatic supports to support the platform. Attach to the helicopter body with two ½" long #6 flat head screws. |
| 1994 Prop (Mod Thin NoSunk).stl | A thin version of the propeller. It is about the same thickness as the original. Print with the flat side on the build plate. The “NoSunk” version does not sink the screw head (same as the original 1994 propeller) and requires no supports. Attach to the body with ¾" or 1" long #6 pan head screw. |
| 1994 Prop (Mod Thick NoSunk).stl | A thicker version of the propeller. I prefer this one. Same printing/installation instructions as above. |
Repairing a wooden 1994 Harold Helicopter
The 1994 version of the helicopter is the easiest to repair. The propeller and the tail are attached to the wooden body with ringed nails. You can slide side cutters under the nail heads, and pull the nails up carefully. If you cannot reuse the nails, use #6 pan head screws. The skids are attached with a pair of flat head screws. They seem close to the US ⅝" long #4 flat head screws. If missing, you can substitute with ½" #6 flat head screws.
You can use the same skids and propeller as before. The tail is a bit different. It has one pin on the right, 3 mm in diameter, and 7.5 mm from the center. You can try to print the original version of the tail, however this pin is not strong even with the injection molded tail. I propose another solution, even two solutions.
Solution #1. Print the version of the tail without the pins from below. Affix it with the #6 screw. It will be possible to turn this tail around the screw. This may be quite alright for a toy: just rotate it back, son! But if not, you can dab some glue on it to prevent it from turning.
Solution #2. Print the same version of the tail without the pins as before. Notice that instead of the pins, the tail has two holes, each 7.5 mm from the center. Buy a ⅛" diameter wooden dowel, and cut about ⅝" (15 mm) long piece. Glue this dowel into the right hole of the tail, matching the hole in the body. You have just made a pin! Do not use a nail or a metal rod for this pin, because if your child breaks off the tail, you do not want a sharp metal pin sticking out. Use wood. If you want, you can make an additional pin on the other side. But for that, you will need to drill into the tail section of the helicopter body. I will give an STL file for a template you can use to assist in drilling the pilot hole.
| File Name | Description |
| 1994 Tail (Mod Normal Shallow PinHoles15 Top Side).stl | A version of the tail without the pins, but rather with 3.2 mm diameter pinholes 15 mm apart. The tail is designed to be attached to the body with a 1¼" or 1½" long #6 pan head screw. Print the tail on its “tail”, with pin holes pointing up. You can enable automatic supports, but the only thing that needs support is the sunk hole for the head of the screw. |
| 1994 Tail Template (Orig PinHoles15).stl | If you want the helicopter's tail to have a pinhole on the left (there is already one on the right), use this template to make the pilot hole. Align the template with the helicopter's body tail section. Hold the template and the body with one hand, and use an awl or a 5/64" (2 mm) drill bit to make the pilot hole. Follow with ⅛" (3 mm) drill bit. The depth of the hole should be about 5 mm. |
Original 1994 Helicopter Parts
Original parts were designed for injection molding, and some of them might be hard to reproduce cleanly with an FDM printer without soluble supports or might end up weak. Here they are, however.
| File Name | Description |
| 1994 Body (Raw NoFillet Notch).step | Raw wooden body, modelled in 3D. It has no fillets, no holes, and is in STEP file format for a CNC machine. |
| 1994 Body (Orig).stl | Original wooden body, modelled in 3D. Has fillets and holes. |
| 1994 Skids (Orig).stl | The skids with hollow runners. These can be printed with a little more cleanup than the Mod version. |
| 1994 Tail (Orig).stl | The original tail. The pin on the right side will end up a little weak. It can also overheat during printing. |
| 1994 Prop (Orig).stl | If printed with non-soluble supports on a FDM printer, the sloping contours will be lost on the underside, will look half decent on top. |
CAD Link: