Sunlu T3 hotend cooling upgrade + direct drive adapter

This upgrade allows you to improve bridging and cooling in fast mode of Sunlu T3 3D printer.

Printing:

I recommend using PETG as it is easy to print with and its thermal resistance is suitable for use in this case. My test model was printed in PLA and I have not encountered any problems, but still I wouldnt choose to stick with it for long. 

I have printed it with 100 percent infill with normal speeds and 250 / 85 degrees (nozzle/bed). Supports were more tricky as I encountered a small setback with standard supports which printed through the mesh of 4010 heatsink fan. It is definitely a settings issue but I would recommend tree supports for this print anyways.

Upgrades:

Obviously there is more cooling as the two 5015 fans provide considerably more power than the single 4010 fan which has even a bad cooling output direction in  my opinion. 

I have moved the standard position of the LED light a bit so it has a better effect and actually lights up the printing area. It is still not perfect but considerably better.

Problems: 

This model is by no means perfect, its at most good as a prototype. I had little time to make it work perfectly but I hope that it will be worth a small hinderance when installing it.  The side pannels should be trimmed down so the fan fits better and the nozzle hole for the fan should be made bigger as well, it all can be fixed with a little heat and time but not everybody wants to make that adjustment. 

Mounting:

Model uses factory holding points with only M3 nuts added. To replace factory cooler: remove the bolts and snap the wires leaving you a bit to work with. Only snap the blower fan tho. Heatsink fan will be reused with the bit it has attached to it. Then solder on the two blower fans on the original wires and you are set with the electronics. Then start with mounting the blower fans I used M3x30 bolts but they are bit long. You should use M4s but fitment is not the best, I will try to make an upgraded version but I will see when I have time. For the heatsink fan use M3x20 bolts and before that install the LED ( you will need to use a bit of heat), just press it in place. Guide the LED wire on the side of the fan and screw the fan with the vent in. When everything is ready just mount the whole thing to the bracket with original screws and M3 nuts. You will need some pliers to hold the nuts or the clippers that come with the printer actually work fine.  Now you are set and enjoy. 

Version 2:

Improved visuals, printablitity, fan protection (only problem is cleaning, it is required to pull out the fan to clean it. Removed electrical box as it is not needed if you run proper voltage fans, I have to have it because my fans are 5V. 

Keep in mind :this might be difficuilt to print.

Direct drive:

Uses standard extruder. Bolts directly to wheels, no alu spacers. 

MODEL TWISTS UNDER HIGH TORQUE, WORKING ON IMPROVED VERSION WITH BETTER STURDINESS AND COOLING 

Direct drive v2:

Strenghtened extruder mount, improved cooling. Please comment for any feedback. I use V6 nozzles and they are a little shorter than original. Meaning I have setup the cooling optimized for my use and hadnt tested for original nozzle Z offset.