Sovol SV06 & PLUS Manta E 3 EZ Mainboard Enclosure

…Please be sure to hit like & post a make, I'd love to see your prints!

In conjunction with 3DPrintDemon. Here's the all new mainboard case for the SV06 & SV06 PLUS that is specifically designed for a MANTA E 3 EZ mainboard with 5 separate drivers! It easily slots onto the original mounting posts & locks in place with the original latch.

This means you will have separate Z motor control so you’ll be able to have a fully automatic printer controlled auto z align before every print using the probe & not running the extruder all the way to the top & grinding it out on the printer frame, the probe will get your gantry machine perfect before every print.

Also this means YOU DO NOT NEED ANY TINS OF SOUP!!

Fair warning, after you’ve printed it you’ll need to change some connector types over on the printer's main wiring loom. Also you’ll need new Z motor cables. Or modify the ones there to split them to two plugs.

This upgrade has a LOT to squeeze in to the case so your print & wiring MUST be very good or you'll probably have issues! There's not much spare room!

I strongly recommend using the correct tools & crimps for this, they don't cost so much on Amazon.

Use the 24v case fan out of the original unit.

This is super easy to print. It’s printed in two halves as an open box, then a group of small parts if you choose that option. The other version the cable port guides are printed in place, this will require more supports. The first version has separate cable ports & these are glued on after printing with good quality CA glue, like I have done here. It makes for a tidier print.

There's an open vent version without the demon face for those that want to either add their own cover or want to run without one for max airflow.

Note the MCU SD card port & MCU USB port can be accessed through adapted lower frame mounting hole.

Printing

0.3mm layer height is good, 0.2mm is better

0.4mm nozzle is good, 0.6mm is better

Add supports inside all main case holes that need it, make sure your support settings are good & are easy to remove.

Add supports on the edge cutouts of the bottom & top cable port parts if you choose that version to print. No need to add supports to the two centre holes however. See note on the files section.

Print all cable ports & parts on their largest flat face, the one meant for gluing.

PLA+ is ok, PETG is better. With proper cooling the mainboard will stay about 30-35ºc when in use in a 22ºc room. If left with no cooling fan the CB1/CM4 module WILL sit at 50ºc at idle, this might be enough to warp PLA. 

Its HIGHLY recommended you buy the extra heatsink for your pi module!

Make sure your printer is set up well, tolerances are tight & the fit is precise. A good clean print is very important, as a sloppy or messy print will mean things won’t fit & the unit will not work well & you’ll have issues mounting the board.

Parts

2x M3 Heat Inserts (5.7mm) - main case half fittings - Recommend RUTHEX

8x Short (4mm) M3 Heat Inserts - IMPORTANT! fan & board mounts - Recommend RUTHEX

2x M3 12mm Countersunk bolts - use on cover fixings

4x M3 16mm Countersunk bolts - IMPORTANT! Use on case fan! DO NOT USE OTHER TYPES! LOW CLEARANCE!!! 

4x M3 6mm Cap Head bolts - use for board mounts

JST Connectors, you will need a JST-XH crimp tool to modify motor cables.

JST plug pins can easily be removed from the connector & moved to another without crimps or any cutting or soldering. just use a pointed tool to push the back of the connector pin down & it’ll release from its housing. CAREFULLY bend the retaining pin back up & reuse in new connector.  

Assembly

assemble all parts carefully, glue parts on the correct way round & DO NOT glue the cable ports together to form ovals, they need to be open & on separate sides of the case so they open.

Add the heat inserts & make sure the board fits perfectly. DO NOT force it or bend the SD card slots! That's a problem if you break it!

Glue on the fan mount to the lid! Be sure to glue the demon face the correct way up if you use that version!

Attach the main case side to the printer. Add the fan to the lid & go by the boards pinout to make the correct connections. Making new cables & modifying the stock ones as you need.

Place the WIFI antenna in the top right corner of the main case, there's some room there. You "could" put it on the lid but chances are you'll forget & rip it off when removing it down the line.

YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE A SHORT EXTRUDER MOTOR EXTENSION CABLE! See photo

VITALLY IMPORTANT!!! DO NOT MISS THIS!!

To set the board up for senseless homing on X & Y you need to add the smallest black jumpers from the supplied bag, DO NOT USE THE BIGGER ONES!  I highly recommend you download & read the full document from the BTT Github page. 

DO NOT add the jumpers to all drivers, just the first two - X & Y!

Also note the board PINOUT diagram on the BTT Github page!

DON'T FORGET TO BUY DRIVERS & HEATSINK! Your board will come without any!