Scimitar - Small Golf Disc

This is a reliably overstable indoor golf disc. It is just under 76mm in diameter and weighs about 7.5 grams in PLA. 

This disc works best for short to mid-range shots that need to be overstable (curve right when thrown backhand by a righty). 

This disc was interesting and not easy to design. Here is a blog post that talks about the physics behind flying discs and why some are overstable and others are understable: https://smalldiscgolf.org/the-falcon/ 

This disc can be printed without supports but the visual quality of the disc suffers. It still flies though. So, I've included a .3mf file for printing with a traditional print base only and another for printing with organic supports and a print base. 

These were both sliced in PrusaSlicer 2.6 alpha 5. 

This disc is also found in the Disc Library here: https://smalldiscgolf.org/disc-library/#scimitar where you can also download the .step files for this and other small golf discs. 

This particular disc, the Scimitar, is is great indoors and outdoors. It's a valuable addition to any collection of small golf discs! 

If you want to slice this yourself and use supports, you'll need to decide where to put them. I created support enforces in a very narrow pattern. 

Here is a 14 second video showing where to put the blockers and enforces. 

The video is of the Falcon but the same rules apply to the Scimitar. 

Here is a page where you can learn different ways of throwing small golf discs: http://smalldiscgolf.org/throwing/ 

Here is an owner's manual for PLA small golf discs: https://smalldiscgolf.org/pla-owners-manual/ 

You can find out more about small disc golf here: https://smalldiscgolf.org 

This disc model and all of the ideas and 3D models contained in the smalldiscgolf.org web site have been released under a creative commons CC0 license, which means you can freely use these models any way you want. 

There is a video series about the design, printing and refinement of this disc:

• Episode 1: Disc Design -  https://youtu.be/P1fLz8dZXok 
• Episode 2: 3D Modeling - https://youtu.be/PvmCj4M5tT4 
• Episode 3: Slicing - https://youtu.be/DMOiaY4J_-k 
• Episode 4: 3D Printing - https://youtu.be/AU55KgKxVqY 
• Episode 5: Testing and Refinement - https://youtu.be/E2nEL2Tidlg 
• Episode 6: Publication - https://youtu.be/MY9SQAVVlZE
   

Printing

The different print base is required whether you print with organic supports or not, so there is only one .step file for this disc. But, there are two .3mf files you can choose from, one that uses supports and one that doesnt. You can usually just bend the print base back and forth to break it off the disc, but especially with silk filament that can tear off the last couple of layers of the disc creating a tiny flat spot. This can be avoided by cutting the print base off with side cutters (wear eye protection!) 
 

More about printing discs here: http://smalldiscgolf.org/printing-discs/

Print Settings -> Layers and perimeters

Perimeters: 4
Avoid crossing perimeters: Checked

Four perimeters means there is no infill, there are perimeters instead, which works out to be better and stronger and also faster to print.

Print Settings -> Skirt and Brim

Brim Width: 10
Brim Separation Gap: 0

This adds a brim to the print base that is stronger - it isn't printed so that it can separate later.

Printer Settings -> Extruder 1

Lift Z: 0

This means the extruder never goes up except to go to the next layer. It is essentially ironing the top of every layer whenever it goes over the same spot.

Filament Settings -> Filament

First Layer: 210
Other Layers: 190

This helps reduce stringing. This will definitely vary by filament. Experiment to find out what works for yours.

If you used supports be sure to set the "XY separation between an object and its support" to 75% or 80% to make it easier to remove the supports.
 

Post-Printing
After the print is done, remove the organic supports if any.  Then remove the print base using side clippers (wear eye protection!)  That leaves an area that needs to be sanded or carved. I use a dremel tool on its very lowest speed with a sanding drum to smooth out the last bumps that weren't removed with the side cutter.

If you look at the top inside of the disc (opposite where the print base was) you might find two little fangs sticking down. I sand these off too - just takes a second. Nobody wants a fanged frisbee.