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USR - MK2 - Universal Spool Rail, spool box, filament garage & more (work in progress) — zdjęcie 1
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USR - MK2 - Universal Spool Rail, spool box, filament garage & more (work in progress)

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Mici

Mici

@Mici

Variable spool widths, spool box, no need for rewinding filament after manual change...

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Printables
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Accessories
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Have you ever wanted to have your favorite filaments (up to 8) always on hand for manual multi-color printing or even for quick loading and protecting the filament from dust and dirt at the same time? 

Are you tired, like me, of rewinding filament onto the spool after every change?

How about a pass through from the top and NOT from behind of your IKEA LACK enclosure?

I designed this specifically for use with an IKEA LACK enclosure (eg. Prusa enclosure V2) with a width of 55cm.

 

My goals:

  • easy and quick printing
  • lowest possible material consumption

Why USR - MK2?

I had some mysterious problems with filament breaks with USR - MK1. The reason was the feeders that should be optimized, a defective PTFE tube and a matte filament that did not slide well.

It was clear to me that the repair of the PTFE tube would not be easy…

Since I also wanted to design a box, I decided to combine all the new ideas into one new version with easier repair possibility.

Note:

This model is used to protect the filament, but unfortunately it is not airtight and the current version is rather unsuitable as a dry box!

Pros:

  • one rail, many combinations
  • up to 8 spools, depending on size
  • adding/removing/adjusting spool width is a snap, no tools required
  • filament is loaded from the front
  • identification labels/tags for numbers/text or QR (useful for Octoprint spool manager), change them as you like
  • PTFE feedthrough from top to inside
  • no rewinding after manual color change (Garage addon). Once loaded, the box only needs to be opened when a spool needs to be replaced
  • the spool box keeps the filaments clean
  • easy to print, easy to assemble
  • inexpensive
  • most parts can be printed with 0.30 mm layer height

Bill of material:

  • wood countersunk screws
  • 2x 8mm x 54cm rods of any kind, but metal or screw rods are advised as you want to be able to move the sliders smoothly
  • M3 bolts and nuts (see assembly guide)
  • 2 x M3 washers
  • glue
  • 54 cm x 43 cm x 0,75 mm PETG sheet. I used one from alt-intech on amazon
  • 1 x MDF plate ( 54 cm x 10,7 cm)
  • <optional> 4x 8mm x 3mm neodym magnets

 

Being an impatient person, I printed all parts with 0.3mm layer height and everything worked. I still recommend printing the parts with a higher accuracy as it does not hurt! Just adjust the print settings as desired….

Mandatory parts and addons

 

Mandatory:

Rail supports and sliders → link

Filament garage - no need of rewinding after material change → see files

A yielding feeder version to prevent jamming with tag support→ see files

The Feeder-Tags-Mini are designed to improve readability without multicolor printing → see files

Bigger tags for text or QR + SVG print template → see files

 

 

Addons:

PTFE Clips → link                                   (optional) 

Magnetic rectangular hygrometer /thermometer mount → link

(optional) 

Combined exhaust and filter system for your enclosure 

(optional)

POC in progress

Upcoming - illuminated “ Spool in use-feeders” + new stackable filament garage

(optional)

POC in progress

Dry box conversion

(optional)

POC in progress

 

 

 

Assembly:

Make sure that all screws can move freely in the recesses provided before tightening them, as they partly serve as hinges.

Before assembling the parts, make sure that the brim is removed cleanly if necessary.

Ensure smooth surfaces where two parts are to be screwed or glued together.

 

1. Upgrading from USR MK1 (original):

If you have no problems with the passtrough, just leave it. Otherwise, use the new MK 2 version.

Do not worry about the roof hole that you have made for the first version. The new back panel has the same dimensions and you can use the old roof hole. Just skip step 2 of the assembly instructions.

You can use the same sliders because they are mostly identical. The end parts of the rail are new with 3 holes to attach to the side elements of the box. But you can also omit the new parts if you are satisfied with the manual adjustment of the rails. 

 

2. Roof hole:

  • from the inside of your enclosure, use the guide plate to mark the pass-trough for the guide
  • make sure you are as far back as possible
  • drill a hole in the middle of your mark so you can arrange the guide plate at the other side 
  • now orient yourself to the drilled hole to do the same on the other side
  • Using a cutter, cut out a rectangle on both sides that is slightly wider than the mark (about 1.5 cm) and remove the paper support from the inside

 

3. The guide:

You need 8x small wood screws.

  • Push the guide through one of the guide plates
  • now push the guide trough the roof hole
  • Screw the plate tight
  • On the other side push the second plate onto the guide
  • After screwing the second plate, the guide should not be able move anymore
  • If necessary, push the plate slightly back and forth until this effect occurs before the second plate is screwed tight
  • If that does not help either, then glue ONE plate to the guide. This way you can still pull out the guide for later repairs by unscrewing the glued plate
  • <OPTIONAL> Use the additional guide front plates for more stability

 

4. The box:

  • Push 3 nuts into a MK2/Rail_End 
  • Use 3 x M3/8mm bolts to screw it to the BASE parts
  • Put the ball bearings on the rods and press them into the respective end parts/sliders
  • Slide in the back plate
  • Screw the base parts flush on your IKEA LACK enclosure
  • Push  2x Lid_Middle_Pin into Lid_Middle (use glue)
  • Check the length of each pin by sliding it into Lid_Left / Lid_Right and cut it accordingly

 

  • Use M3/20mm bolts to connect the ONE LID_SIDE_PART with a HINGE and the LID_MIDDLE
  • Now use some glue to fix the LID_MIDDLE with the LID_SIDE_PARTs
  • Make sure that no glue gets into the slot and the HINGE isn't glued either
  • The slot has to remain free. If necessary and after drying, use a cutter and scrape out the dried glue

 

  • Use 1 x M3/25mm and a washer to connect LID_SIDE_PARTS with the Base
  • Make sure the hinges are absolutely vertical and screw them to the back plane tight
  • To avoid injuries later on, only use short screws that do not stick out on the other side (best M4x10 wood countersunk screws)

 

  • Use some glue for LID_Front_Left/Right
  • Use 4x M3/6mm bolts to connect LID_Front_Left/Right with LID_Front connector
  • Cut a strip with a width of approx. 54 cm x 43 cm from the PETG sheet and slide it into the lid (This is the tricky part)
  • The rounding of the edges can be very helpful when sliding in
  • Put the already prepared LID_Front on the sheet
  • Use 2x M3/24 mm bolts to screw LID_Front to the LID_SIDE parts

The side parts and the lid front have cutouts for 8mm x 3mm magnets. These can additionally keep the lid closed.

As you can see, the middle section was not used as I was working on other extensions that would utilize this space. You can also USE this area!

  • The BACKPLATE_PASSTROUGHs are mounted as shown in the picture
  • Use a BACKPLATE_PASSTROUGH and mark the positions 
  • Open the LID and pull out the backplate
  • Cut out the corresponding square holes, so that the BACKPLATE_PASSTROUGH can be attached
  • Put the BACKPLATE_PASSTROUGHs on the backplate
  • Push the backplate back in
  • One recess is intended for 2 tubes, thus 4 recesses for 8 tubes in total

 

 

5. PTFE tubes:

For easier assembly we use the sequence 1 → 8 → 2 → 7 → 3 → 6 → 4 → 5

Make sure not to cut the tubes too short so that they do not form too tight curves

  • Insert one end of a tube into the feeder and screw the feeder tight
  • Slide the tube below the rods and trough the very left backplate passtrough (position 1)
  • Mount the feeder by pushing it vertically and with some force under the rod
  • Move the feeder slightly to the left and to the right to get a feel for how long the tube needs to be to handle different sized spools
  • Slide the tube into the the middle of the roof guide 
  • Push it to the very left inside the guide
  • Do the same with next one (position 8), but this time push it to the very right
  • Repeat

 

6. Tag plates:

The Feeder-Tags-Mini are designed to improve readability without multicolor printing

 

  • Cut a strip of paper with a width of about 10mm
  • Insert the paper into the slit and cut it so that nothing is sticking out of the top
  • The tags are attached on the feeder

7. The filament garage:

 

  • Eject the old filament
  • Cut off the end as you always do 
  • You don't need to rewind the filament, just slide it into a free slot in the filament garage 
  • Pull the desired filament out of the garage and load it
  • Print

Tagi

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