CinePunk3 r2 - printed Cinematic quadcopter frame
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CinePUNK 3 (inch) modular cinematic quadcopter frame space for second stack (fpv camera board) easy to repair/print by…
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Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- RC & Robotics
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — NoDerivatives
CinePUNK 3 (inch)
- modular cinematic quadcopter frame
- space for second stack (fpv camera board)
- easy to repair/print by modularity, limited supports used
- 16 x M2 screws for assembling (no other parts required to fly this)
- USB plug friendly, tunnels from sides, GoPro mount integrated with top plate
- 90g of total weight (double walls) or less then 60g for single wall ducts
General notes
- this is intentionally 'strong type' frame (for duct frames, not in general :-)) then simple spectator/operator security
- frame becomes very stiff after assembling, flexible plates are not a problem (make it, then judge)
- this frame has intentionally very small margins between plates and ducts to be stiff
- use proper motors, for example emax rs1606 has no power shortages in my case
- use bullnose propellers and very small propeller clearance for best efficiency/flight time
- if you think about security only there are lighter frames you should try
Plans / TO DO (in this or different model)
- more secure FPV camera mount (cover for lenses)
- multiple, wider and front rear plates compatible to ducts
- LED support holes to put LEDs on ducts easily
- two go pro mounts for double recording cameras (front / rear)
Versions
- 2020-01-25 v0.34 - first public version
If you appreciate or like my design you can make a small donation - https://paypal.me/L3M4R
Thanks
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender 5
Rafts:
Doesn't Matter
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
.12
Filament:
Devil Design PETG
Notes:
Let's start with
* 10% infill and 2/4/4 for walls/bottom/top respectivelly for ducts and mounts * 75% infill and 5/5/5 walls for rest plates (top is carring your camera, make it strong)For jumpstart - 0.2 layer height will work and fly - try this first (print/build/fly/crash/repeat).
FILAMENT
I have good results using PLA for plates as it seems to be stiffer then PETG in my case. Duct have to be flexible, so PETG seems to be better, but maybe NYLON is the target. In fact, just to fly you can use PLA for ducts, but land carrefoully :-).
RETRACTION
If you have well calibrated printer it is possible to print this using single wall. Make sure your retraction is very good tuned for 1 wall duct prints - it is possible to have very lightweight ducts but to make 1 layer walls (0.4 mm) you have to be sure all filaments goes to walls, not to the air (strings).
CLEARANCE
The propeller has .3mm clearance (margin/gap/distance between end of propeller and inner duct wall), so it is shoulg give you .6 mm on both sides of proppeller. Notice that diffrent materials (PLA, PETG) has different shrinkage side effect, so in fact your print finally becomes a bit smaller (1-3%). So right after mounting motors and propellers use bottom motor bolts to tune the 'axis' to make is well centered (I'm experimenting with sprint washers also) and use sand paper to clean internal duct surface to give propeller needed space.
Post-Printing
Assemble tips
- 16 x M2 4-7 mm screws
- before assemble carefully create the threads using hex screw and driver
- if thread stops to work due to too many disassembling put a short, melted 0.4 filament (the one from printer nozzle - cold :-))
- use screw washers from the bottom of motors mounts
- use sand paper to gently clean mount surfaces to be able to use screws more comfortable
- especially for ducts make sure inner surface has no blobs at propeller ring level
Custom Section
Category: R/C Vehicles