Prusa i3 MK2 increased Z height & other changes

DISCLAIMER: this is all custom made for my printer and I doubt it would easily fit others' printers and needs. I'm sharing these files in case someone finds them useful, not for directly doing the same modifications as I did, but this may serve as an inspiration for other custom modifications. I'm not giving detailed instructions as it would take time to write them, but I'm uploading many photos which may help.

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The Z height is increased by moving the Z motors up and reorganizing the cables on the head so it can lift higher without hitting the frame from the inside. If the print bed is unchanged, the maximum Z height can probably be increased even more, but I've "downgraded" the bed leveling to manual (in order to replace a damaged print surface for cheap glass) which takes some Z space. Despite this and installing a longer Volcano nozzle, I've managed to increase Z height to 220mm (from original 200mm).

If using this frame stiffener, don't print “Z top L” & “Z top R” included here, instead use those files.

As I've changed the bed to a glass surface and manual leveling, the PINDA probe is not used for bed leveling anymore, instead I've relocated it next to the left Z motor and I've added a small metal plate attached to X gantry to be detected by the probe, as a simple Z endstop. The bed is lifted up a bit to make space for leveling wheels. I've also made Y axis belt tensioner.

Without increasing the cables length (from the print head to the motherboard), not full build volume is usable: the top-rear-left corner must not be used for printing as the cables pass that way when the print head moves to max Z and X. For this reason I've added some wires to hold the cables away so they minimally restrict the print area. The print volume is therefore X247 (a little less than 250 because of different cable management on the print head), Y210, Z220 (minus the top-rear-left corner).

The extruder motor is moved a bit closer to the X axis (compared to original Prusa MK2 setup), so for this reason the extruder gear needs to be moved 2mm closer to the motor. The front part of the head can be attached to the rear part in two positions: normal (for standard nozzle length) and a higher position (suitable for volcano nozzle).

The cold-end fan cover and part of the part cooling fan duct are designed to minimize unwanted airflow over print for ABS printing, although I have no idea if it actually helps in any way (I haven't done any proper testing, it's just guesswork and "feeling with fingers").

To be able to use higher Z height, the spool holder needs to be higher as well, see this one.

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Required screws, etc. (not a pecize list, I may have forgotten something):

Z increase:
10x M3x10~ (reused)
2x M4x10
2x M4 hex nut

manual bed leveling:
2x M3x12 (reused)
4x M3x20 flat head
6x M3 hex nut
3x zip tie

Y belt tensioner:
2x M3x16
2x M3 hex nut
screw and nyloc nut reused

head:
all screws and nuts are reused from the original parts

fan duct & holder:
2x M3x20 (one is reused from original fan duct)
2x M3x16
2x M3 hex nut (some are maybe reused, I don't remember)
2x M4x20
2x M4 hex nut

filament sensor:
2x M3x10
1x M3x16
3x M3 hex nut
1x M4x20
1x M4x25
2x M4 hex nut
1x ~35mm of 2mm copper wire (I could have designed it for M2 screws, but I didn't have those)
1x microswitch

cables support:
3x M3x10
1x ~19cm cable
1x ~24cm cable