Ender 3 pro prusa style upgrade for all axes
Obliczymy ostateczną cenę na podstawie wybranego pliku. Sprawdzisz ją i zaakceptujesz przed płatnością.
Zapisane na tym urządzeniu.
Hello everybody, here is my Ender 3 pro upgrade to replace the rollers. Keep in mind that these parts were designed…
- Ocena
- 4 / 5
- Polubienia
- 25
- Pobrania
- 94
- Wydruki
- 0
- Wyświetlenia
- 1807
- Oceny
- 1
Aktualizacja u źródła:
Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- Creality Parts & Upgrades
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Attribution
Hello everybody, here is my Ender 3 pro upgrade to replace the rollers. Keep in mind that these parts were designed for the biqu H2 V2S hotend, so the bed size may not fit for the original, you may have to adjust it in the firmware.
!!! Use/make it at your own risk, I'm just an enginnering student who finished
high/secondary school, so I'm not a professional designer. Don't get me wrong,it
works well on my printer, but be aware of these informations. !!!
!!! The X axis is still in progress (I will redesign the rod fixers and use smt else instead of
the cable ties. !!!
You can't use the "Bearing spacer" on the "X axis carriage" because it would not fit. Btw this part isn't neccesary to be used.
Be sure to buy the same type of M3 screw (or one with a more flat head), otherwise the
bed leveling srews will get stuck into the screw heads.
If you have any suggestion or any problem, please write me a comment.
I recommend printing the parts as they are placed in the stl files, I printed them this way (with supports where it needs it)
You'll need these:
-8mm rod: -2 x 400mm for Y axis
-2 x 440mm for Z axis
-2 x 375mm for X axis
-M3 screw: -8mm (or 6mm): 22 piece
-30mm: 6 piece
-15mm: 1 piece
-M3 nut: 27 piece
-M5 screw: -40mm: 7 piece
-8mm: 24 piece
-15mm: 4 piece
-M5 nut (I would you lock nut, but the basic nut is good aswell): 7 piece
-M5 T-nut: 24 piece
-34 piece of cable tie (3,5mm x 1mm)
-GT-2 belt: -approximately 90mm for the X axis (I would buy a bit longer then you can cut
off the excess)
-you can use the original Y axis belt for the Y axis (but if you do, you will
struggle a bit, you may have to remove the Y axis motor to install the belt,
then reinstall it
-LM8UU linear bearing: 11 piece
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender 3 Pro
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0,25
Infill:
15%
Filament: Creality Petg Red
Notes:
I think you can use ABS aswell, but I didn't test it. I don't recommend using Pla. You will need to use a pause at layer height or filament change (I recommend this, beucase in some cases my printer turned off the stepper motors when I used pause at layer height) command on the "X axis carriage" to insert the 2 M3 nut into the places (these ones hold the hotend mount)
I designed it in Solid Edge (it's not the best app for this, but I can't really use any other cad softwares). I use cura and prusaslicer for slicing the parts
Custom Section
Tips for printing
You will need to use a pause at layer height or filament change (I recommend this, beucase in some cases my printer turned off the stepper motors when I used pause at layer height) command on the "X axis carriage" to insert the 2 M3 nut into the places (these ones hold the hotend mount)
Be aware where you use supports and where its needs support blocker, on the "X axis bracket RIGHT" you will need to use supports for the guide of the "X axis tensioner", but you have to use suppoort blockers for the grove of the cable ties, otherwise you will have to reprint it becuase you cant fit the cable ties into it.I recommend printing the parts as they are placed in the stl files, I printed them this way (with supports where it needs it)
Category: 3D Printer Parts