Ford Focus Automatic Shifter Lock Override
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This is a pin to override the automatic gear shifter lock on the Ford Focus (2005 - 2011).
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This is a pin to override the automatic gear shifter lock on the Ford Focus (2005 - 2011).
It was made for, and tested on, a 2007 hatchback model. However, I see no reason why it wouldn't work for other years (2005-2011) or on the estate model.
It is a quick fix while I get the issue sorted properly, but the car is in near constant use so this keeps it usable.
It is designed so that the barbs keep it held down in position, and can be very tight to push in (by design). If it warps and isn't holding effectively, there is some extra length so you can push the knob at the top to keep it working a bit longer.
I like to think of myself as a bodging artist, and in this case I have designed it so I am able to bodge the bodge.
The gear shifter should not move out of park if the brake pedal is not depressed. However, if even when the brake is depressed you can't shift out of park, this pin goes into a slot (on the top right of the shifter base plate under a blanking plate) used to temporarily override the mechanism. This is usually pushed with anything pokey each time you need to shift out of park but this keeps it held down "permanently". It does not mean you don't need to press the unlocking button on the shifter itself, it only means you don't need to depress the brake pedal to move into gear (you should still do this though so you don't roll unexpectedly).
It is not particularly safe to override this mechanism, as it can lead to the car being parked without being put into "park" so entirely depending on the handbrake not to roll. You could technically leave the car in "drive" like leaving a manual in 1st, but I don't know if this is advisable. Basically, if you use this please don't sue me - I hope it gets you out of a tight spot though.
Being stuck in "park" is usually due to either the brake switch being broken, the lock arm actuator being broken, or the locking arm itself being broken. None of these are my issue, so if any of you have had a similar issue that you work out how to fix please tell me!
You can remix the design here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/l9zxAmsUtoa
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender-3 S1 Pro
Rafts:
Doesn't Matter
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.2 layer w. 0.4mm nozzle, or 0.5 layer with 1.0mm nozzle.
Infill:
10-20% Cubic
Filament: eSun PETG Black
Notes:
Print horizontal with barbs out to the sides, otherwise the barbs break easily, and there is a higher chance the entire part will split.
This means you need supports under the thinner section, don't try to avoid supports by printing vertically unless you are exceptionally confident in your layer adhesion/strength. If it breaks off inside the shifter mechanism it will be a nightmare to get to.
This should work fine in any inflexible material. You can block supports for the knob on top without any issues.
I initially drafted this with a 1mm nozzle and 0.5mm layer height, and it worked just fine (and only took 9 minutes to print! I then broke it through my own stupidity, but had changed the nozzle over on my printer to 0.4mm and so used 0.2mm layer height which made it slightly smoother to install.
Post-Printing
Just snap off supports and it's good to go.
Category: Automotive