Insta360 Sphere adaptors for DJI Mavic 2 PRO

At your own risk - flying toys are dangerous. Treat them with respect.

Author provides this for educational purposes only.

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Print settings

• Material - PETG/ASA/ABS.
• Layer Height - 0.2mm

Project description

There is not much of a difference between the DJI Mavic Air 2 and DJI Mavic 2 Pro. 
One evolution of the other.

The mod doesn't obstruct any sensors and the drone handles it like a champ. 

To perform this mad mod you would need some tools and supplies:

• 3d printer or a friend with one.
• Soldering iron.
• Enough properly sized wire to extend the power cable 15mm.
• Heat shrink insulation.
• PH000 Philips screwdriver.
• Curved tweezers like this proved to be very handy.
• Automatic center punch.
• 1mm hard steel rod to push out the hinge pins. I sacrificed one of my micro drill bits.
• Pliers that can grip a 1.2mm rod, hard. Leatherman Surge was enough for me.
• Fabric tape to replace what was removed from the cable.
• A needle.
• Some CA glue.
• Phone to take pictures of disassembly process - memory is not your friend here.
• Straight and steady hands.
• An hour of your time.

Modification steps:

• Pull out the battery from insta360 Sphere. 
• Remove the brains cover and unplug the power cable. No need to remove the board, just gently pull it up enough for cable to slide out of plug.
• Fish it out of the brain box. One rubber grommet has to go. Cable and grommet is secured with CA glue.
• Now you have to pull the pins out of the white micro plug. Be gentle. With needle slightly pry the latch (check pictures below) and pull wire out. One by one.
• Now you can fish the cable out of the bottom bracket all the way to cameras side.
• Bottom bracket removal
  • With the 1mm rod placed on the angled side of the hinge against the pin - tap with a screwdriver handle on it until the pin will start to come out. It press fitted inside.
  • The center punch will make it quick but you have to be precise. 
  • Use pliers to pull out the pins. They might not come all the way out, don't force them.
• Clasp removal
  • With center punch, strike the hinge pins from the inside out.
  • Pull with pliers. Be mindful, plastic.
• Do the magic with extending the wire length. Put the white plug back on. Keep the wire order the same please. Refer to picture in attachments.
• Wrap it back into the fabric tape.
• Now repeat the steps backwards to install the clasp and bottom bracket.
• Tuck in extended cable to the channel, lubricated with CA glue, in the bottom bracket.
• Fish it through, make sure there is no hard rubbing points and kink points.
• Connect the cable and close the brain cover.
• Articulate everything to see if there are any problems. The bottom bracket designed with same articulation limits in minds as the original. With nice resistance spot to open.
• Put it on the drone, make sure there is no interference with battery buttons. I didn't have any issues but friend of mine reported that his drone didn't like his buttons pushed. So a little adjustment solved that.

The end. You know what to do next =) Admire of course the results of your hard work and hit the like button here. Share subscribe, all that jazz.

P.S. Due to the nature of the parts and the precision involved, I didn't upload editable files. Please let me know if you'd like to get them, and with enough demand files will be uploaded here.