Goodmans Wireless XE Headphones Replacement Band - Hinge fix + Bonus

GoodMans Wireless XE Headphones (Hinge Fix)

So you broke your headphones, in the words of the Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy ‘Dont Panic’
 

This model will replace the entire top band to which the hinges are part of. Although they are great sounding headphones  at a very good price, this seem to be the weakest part of the product and didn't survive one fall to the ground. The original part (black) and closeup of the break can be found in pictures 2,3&4

Although this model is based on the Goodmans set of headphones it will also fit some other headphones, I have seen online, that have the same hinge mechanism and headband. Some of the links below show some headphones which may not be an exact match visually but it may be possible that they still use the same headband. If not the design files may only need a small tweak to make them work.

These links are purely for reference: (Not affiliate links)
https://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/goodmans-wireless-xe-headphones-black-376142

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/p/louise-and-mann-headphones-wireless-bluetooth-over-ear-headphones-with-microphone-hi-fi-stereo-foldable-wireless-and-wired-headset-soft-memory-f~p59535333/?exta=gshp&extac=gshpfa

https://rosslyn.co.uk/product/5-0-wireless-foldable-headphone/

https://no1brands4you.co.uk/intempo-folding-clarity-headphones-with-adjustable-headband/

https://stockx.com/en-gb/apple-beats-solo-pro-wireless-noise-cancelling-headphones-mrj72ll-a-ivory

Print settings (Picture 19)

1. Layer height - 0.1mm or 0.2
2. Walls - 3
3. Infill - 15% - 20%
4. Material - PETG or PLA
5. Print orientation - Side
6. Supports - Tree supports
7. Print adhesion - Brim 5 lines
    

Designed for printing on an FDM printer but I'm sure would print fine on a resin printer.

I printed this at 0.1mm layer height and it took around 6 and a half hours but it should print fine at 0.2 if you are in a hurry. 
(I would not recommend 0.3mm as the clips required for the rubber part assembly might not print well enough to clip together properly.)

3 walls is sufficient to give enough strength while allowing some flex.

PETG is a little more flexible than PLA and won't warp or bend when you're out in the summer heat, so if you have it I would recommend it otherwise PLA should be sufficient.

Printing on its side will give it the best strength once printed allowing natural bending of the headphones when placing them on your head, printing upright might cause breaks across the layer lines.

Files

The main printable file Goodmans headphones band v5.stl (seen in photos) used for the standard repair is ready for slicing in your favourite slicer.

The design files for the Goodmans headphones band v5.stl have been uploaded, I primarily use Fusion 360 for my designs (f3d file) but have included both SketchUp and step files for those who use other programs.

Bonus files are in STL format and ready for slicing but are not necessary for repair (see below).

Bonus

As a bonus I have included a few extra models which could be regarded as an upgrade if you are fixing these for your child or inner-child, I mean who wouldn't want added coolness. These are in addition to the main model and not required to repair your headphones, likewise if you print one of the bonus models instead you don't need to print the original model. Please bear in mind these models can significantly increase your print time (2 to 3 times as long) but with some well thought out colour changes they could be very spectacular also.

Tools needed (Picture 20)

1. A small Philips/cross head screw driver
2. A spudger - used for prying small plastic parts apart (a small flat screwdriver will also work)
3. Tweezers
4. A pair of pliers
5. Small container to keep the parts in.

If you lost the pin when the hinge broke you will also need the following
1.2mm drill bit
a good pair of side cutters

Dissasembly

1. Looking at picture 4 you can see 2 small screws holding the end piece in place, remove them and keep them safe in your handy container.
    
2. Picture 5 shows where to place the spudger under the end piece, gently prise this up.
   This is necessary as there is 2 small clips either side of the hinge which can make it a bit awkward to remove the end piece.
    
3. Once the end piece is removed repeat this for the other side, place these in your container.
    
4. Picture 6, gently pull the rubber away from the band. Go down one side then the other.
    
5. Picture 7, again gently use the spudger to unclip centre piece of the head band. Work your way down on side and then the whole piece should come away easily.
    
6. Put the rubber back onto the centre piece as shown in picture 8, it will fit into the grooves down the sides of the centre piece. make sure the end of the centre piece and the rubber are aligned as shown in picture 9.
    
7. Now undo the last 2 screws at each end of the head band, these hold the hinge spring in place that give it that nice snap back and forth when folding the headphones. Again place these pieces and screws in your handy container.
    
8. Use the point of the tweezers to push the pin out from the hinge of the side that isn't broken and keep safe in your container.
   (if you were unlucky enough to have broken both hinges then you don't need to do this part)

The headphones should now be fully disassembled and ready for the new part once it has finished printing.

Reassembly

1. If you lost one or more of the pins you will need to find something suitable to replace them with. The pin measures 1.2mm in diameter and 16mm long.
   I used the smooth end of a 1.2mm drill bit and cut it to the correct length with a good set of side cutters.
    
2. Take one of the pins and push through the holes on the new part (Picture 11) just to make sure it fits correctly before trying to assemble the hinge. then remove again,
    
3. Make sure the wire from the headphones is in the centre groove of the arm as shown in picture 10, this is essential so that the wire doesn't get damaged and also so the hinge works smoothly. 
    
4. Whilst holding the headphone in position push the pin through the hole, you may need to use the pliers so that you can get a good grip on the pin and you may need to wiggle the headphone a little until the pin pushes through. Repeat this for both ends, Picture 12 shows what this will look like.
    
5. Get the hinge springs (From section 7 of the disassembly) and 2 screws. Place the spring piece as shown in picture 13, this may be a bit fiddly as you will have to press it into place making sure the wire runs underneath the spring without catching and the 2 holes either side of it line up and fit over the 2 screw holes for the end piece. once you have this in position put the screw in to the middle back hole and carefully tighten (caution do not overtighten this screw). when complete it should look like picture 13. Repeat this for the other side.
    
6. Make sure the wire is running down the centre of the headband and make a loop if you have excess wire and put it round the pin in the centre of the band, picture 14.
    
7. Take the centre piece which you put the rubber back onto during the disassembly and align the centre pin of the head band with the hole in the centre piece shown in picture 15. Fit the two parts together starting in the middle where the pin and the hole are, this should make a satisfying snap sound, then work towards the ends clipping together as you go.
    
8. Work the rubber piece gently at the sides so that it all lines up nicely and should look like picture 16.
    
9. Now take the 2 end pieces and the four screws. Press the end piece over the hinge, this should click into place and cover the end of the rubber piece. Apply a little pressure to the end piece holding it in place whilst fitting the 2 screws. Repeat on the other side.
   (Again take caution when tightening the screws although they should tighten up a bit more than the centre screw in the hinge spring piece.)

Your headphones are now fully assembled and fixed.

You should be able to continue enjoying your headphones, confident you can easily fix them should disaster strike again.

If this design has helped you save your headphones then please post a make and accept a crisp high five ✋ for not sending your broken ones to landfill.

If this model is close but not an exact fit for your headphones as they are a different brand/make, but you are not able to use CAD, then please feel free to message me and I will try to adapt the model to fit for you.