Ender 5 Auto Z Calibrate Pack

Converts your Ender 5 running Klipper to a Voron Style nozzle end stop, and optionally, have a nozzle cleaning brush.

What? Why would I want that?
To use Auto Z Calibrate! Auto Z Calibrate calculates your Z Offset for you. If you change nozzles a lot (Say, if you're using an E3D Revo Hotend, like I am) then you might get tired of doing the paper trick all the time, and the adjustments you have to do afterward, and everything being slightly different every time, making it hard to just get back to your project! You do want to finish your projects, right?

OK I'm Sold. What do I need to do?

This is a pretty involved mod, with at least 2 prints in this pack, Some kind of mount for a Klicky Mod if you aren't already using one (Hint: if you're a Microswiss NG user, I made a mount for the inexpensive and easier to use PCB Klicky for you! Click Here)

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Injection Molded Voron End stop - You will definitely need one of these.

Nozzle Brush - You will optionally need one of these.

You will also need two M4x20 bolts to hold whichever mount you choose down to the bed mount.

Then, print the parts that apply to you.

If you just want to use the End stop without the brush, you only need to print “ZSwitch Mount.stl” It's smaller to save you some plastic. 

If you want to use the end stop and the brush, then you need to print “Nozzle Brush ZSwitch Mount.stl” and “Nozzle Brush Holder.stl”

All these parts can be printed in PLA if you only plan on printing PLA without an enclosure. If you plan on printing PETG without an enclosure, you might be OK with these printed from PLA, but consider using PETG. If you are printing with an enclosure temp above 60c or so, or bed temps above 85, you might need to print these out of something tougher than PETG even. But I haven't tested that yet.

All of these parts are designed to be printed in the orientation provided. Just click slice. None of them have requirements for nozzle sizes or layer heights, but I printed half of them with 0.4 nozzles and 0.2mm layer heights and the other half of them with 0.6 nozzles and 0.2 mm layer heights.

After you have mounted the end stop to your bed mount, you'll have to edit your Safe Z Homing position. Either do this in the [safe_z_home] section of printer.cfg, setting the location so that your nozzle is centered on the endstop, or do it in the klicky_variables.cfg file, if you are using Klicky, also so your Nozzle is centered on the endstop.

You should now be able to Home your printer, although your Z will be wildly off. Don't worry, that's expected. Do not calculate your Z Offset. Do however, as a precaution for the next step, calculate your Probe Offset.

Instead of calculating your Z Offset manually, like some kind of chump, Install the Auto Z Calibrate plugin! Here it is. The Wiki is extremely detailed and very good. As part of installing it, you'll have to remove the [safe_z_home] section from your printer config, but you'll need the coordinates you calculated for it, so don't fret about having done the work.

Once you complete all the configuration, you should be able to change your start gcode in your slicer. Assuming Prusa Slicer, your start Gcode probably starts like this:
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp
G4 S30 ; allow partial nozzle warmup
G28 ; home all axis

And to make the most of all this, you should change that part to this if you don't use the nozzle brush:

M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28;
CALIBRATE_Z
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE

This makes sure that your extruder heats enough to ooze filament so your Nozzle is the thing that pushes in on the endstop, not the plastic stuck to the end of it. So if you don't use the Nozzle Brush you may have some oozing during your bed mesh probe. Just keep an eye on that.

If you DO print the nozzle brush however… use this gcode:

M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28;
CLEAN_NOZZLE
G28 Z
CALIBRATE_Z
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE

And add this to your printer.cfg, editing the values at the top to match your printer.

[gcode_macro CLEAN_NOZZLE]
variable_brushx: 9999 # left of brush
variable_brushy: 9999 # bottom of brush
variable_brushz: 0 # brush zheight - Should be low enough that the nozzle rubs into the brush
variable_brushsizex: 9999 # width of bristles
variable_brushsizey: 9999 # height of bristles
gcode:
   M400
   {% if "xyz" not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %}
       G28
   {% endif %}

   G90
   G0 Z5 F3600
   G0 X{brushx} Y{brushy+(brushsizey/2)} 
   G0 Z{brushz} 
   
   M117 Brushing Nozzle
   G0 X{brushx+brushsizex} F5000
   G0 X{brushx}
   G0 X{brushx+brushsizex}
   G0 X{brushx}
   G0 X{brushx+(brushsizex*0.2)} Y{brushy+(brushsizey*0.1)}
   G0 X{brushx+(brushsizex*0.4)} Y{brushy+(brushsizey*0.9)}
G0 X{brushx+(brushsizex*0.6)} Y{brushy+(brushsizey*0.1)}
G0 X{brushx+(brushsizex*0.8)} Y{brushy+(brushsizey*0.9)}
G0 X{brushx+(brushsizex*1)} Y{brushy+(brushsizey*0.1)}
   G0 Z5 F3600

And then your sliced files will start with the correct baby stepping every time after you finish the calibration for Auto Z Calibrate! No more paper, no more baby stepping, no more worrying when changing your build surface. Just point and print.