Magnetic Drip Tray Holder for Keezer/Kegerator V2

This is a magnetic tray holder that I made to attach my stainless steel drip tray to the outside of my keezer which has 4 taps for my homebrewed beer. There is a “finger hole" on the front so you can easily remove the drip tray for occasional cleaning.

V2 Changes:

After 2.5 years one of the superglue joints failed and my tray fell apart, so rather than re-glue it I decided to improve the model and assembly.

• All walls increased from 5mm to 6mm for a larger bonding surface.

• Added dogbone inserts at the joint lines for extra strength and lengthwise flex resistance.

• Rather than using superglue between the tray pieces, I switched to a 5 minute set urethane plastic bonder for better gap-filling and flexibility.

I attempted to embed the magnets inside the print with a 0.4mm rear wall, however since magnetic strength drops cubically with distance, it wasn't strong enough for my liking and I reverted this change.

Materials:

Product links to Amazon are affiliate links; if you find this model useful and need supplies, I'd appreciate you buying through the link to support my efforts at no extra cost to you. I always link the exact items I used during the make so it goes together flawlessly!

• (QTY 1) 19" Drip Tray: The stainless drip tray despite being advertised as 19" x 4" actually measures 19 and 5/16" by 4 and 1/16", so the model is made for the actual dimensions. I used this one, but it's been going in and out of stock. This product looks identical.

• (QTY 10) 32mm x 3mm neodymium disc magnets. I used these. The holes on the model are 1.25" or 31.75mm in diameter since these Amazon neodymium magnets always arrive smaller and thinner than the advertised dimensions.

• (QTY ~) JB Weld 50139 Urethane Plastic Bonder, Black. This product comes in a few colors, but I figured going black for the drip tray would make the color match flawless and it did. This gives you 5 minutes of work time to tweak the alignment.

• (QTY ~) Super Glue AKA Cyanoacrylate Glue

Printing Tips:

Due to the length of the part I cut it into 3 pieces to print on my MK3S+. Supports are not needed for the magnet holes on a decently calibrated Prusa printer. Printed "flat" in the as-installed orientation using the 0.2mm Quality profile in PrusaSlicer.

Print 6 of the dogbones. The .gcode I uploaded already prints 6 of these using the "complete individual objects" setting.

Assembly instructions:

A couple of spring clamps will make your life much easier, if you don't have these, large binder clips will probably suffice. Put down a paper bag or cardboard to protect your work surface from the glue. Test fit the dogbones in the tray pieces before proceeding.

Mix the JB Weld plastic bonder and use a popsicle stick or some other applicator to apply a bead to one side of the drip tray joint. You want enough to fill the joint, but not so much that it squeezes out and gloops everywhere:

Approach the tray thirds to squish together tightly, then move your clamps over the joint. Use a paper towel to wipe up any JB Weld that squeezes out. Make sure the front and back top lips are horizontally flush, and if not use your 5 minutes of work time with the JB Weld to tweak them into place. Once you're happy with the alignment, put like 4 drops of superglue in each dogbone recess, and gently press them into place. Hold for 10-15 seconds until the superglue grabs. 

Let the joint cure up for at least an hour, then repeat on the final third. Put 3-4 drops of CA glue in each magnet hole, then insert the magnets and use your spring clamps to hold each one into the hole. You probably only need a few minutes of clamp time per magnet, but I'd wait several hours or a full day before sticking the magnets to your keezer/kegerator. (Note I did 5 magnets with JB Weld and 5 with CA glue as a test. 2 of the JB Weld magnets popped out after sticking/unsticking to my keezer a few times and none of the CA glue ones fell out, so I recommend CA glue here):