3D Printable Hitbox REDUX (FDM split update)

You can find the original design here.

Updates

12/22/23

Uploaded split models for printing on typical FDM machines. Holes for 2mm steel rods were added on the base to add strength. I recommend buying 2mm x 300mm rods and cutting them down to size, about 260mm.

3D Printable Hitbox REDUX

Overview

A while ago, I designed and published the models for a printable hitbox controller. I like to think my design skills have improved somewhat since then, so I decided to take another crack at it and make some improvements.

The goal with this controller wasn't to design the smallest, slimmest device. I wanted it to be more compact than before, without compromising comfort. To this end, the dedicated battery space has been removed, but there's still ample room for other batteries to be placed inside and posts to wrap your USB cable around for storage.

My Builds (As Pictured)

The chassis in the cover photo is SLS nylon. As you can see, the chassis models aren't very FDM-friendly as is. However, it can certainly be split and assembled in parts to accommodate FDM machines. This is shown in the gray build with the blue inside, which is sanded Prusa PC Blend and PETG.

Printing

If you choose FDM, PETG is highly preferable for the chassis. No other material I've tested has warping and tension low enough to come out perfectly flat. You can see the consequences of using a material that warps a bit in the PC Blend build. The dimensions aren't quite right and nothing lines up as nicely as it does on the SLS nylon build.

The transparency of the SLS Nylon is specific to that material and process. It will be opaque when printed on FDM.

Assembly

Materials

• 1.75mm diameter stranded wire
• Soldering iron
• Rosin core solder
• 12x Kailh Choc switches
• USB-B cable
• USB-C breakout board
• Brook Universal or Brook Fusion Fighting Board
• Adhesive 5v LED strips
• 1 Ohm resistor
• CA glue
• Clamps
• A small latching push button
• 4x small, tactile push buttons (these fit, and getting a kit with variable heights is a good idea)
• A toothpick
• 8x 6x2mm cylindrical magnets
• 4x 3M heat inserts
• 4x 3M screws

Models

base - The bottom shell of the chassis.

base plate - A plate to keep the cables in place and provide extra structure for split FDM builds.

lid - The top shell of the chassis.

cable guide - A cable management plate that holds the Kailh switches. In two parts.

menu button - Keycap for the top menu buttons.

menu button washer - Holds the menu button keycaps in.

side button - Keycap for the side switch. 

Process

1. Cable guide
   1. Lay wires in the cable guide's base. Leave plenty of extra length just in case. Strip the end of the wire before inserting.
   2. Glue on the cable guide's top to keep cables secure while working.
   3. Connect all grounds according to the Brook's UFB wiring guide.
   4. Insert Kailh Choc switches. They should snap into place. Solder to the pins, or alternatively, you could solder to quick disconnects.
2. Lid
   1. Mark the polarity on your magnets. Double check.
   2. Glue magnets into their holes by the corners.
   3. Position the cable guide under the lid and glue it in place.
   4. Add heat inserts.
   5. Mount the Brook board.
   6. Insert the menu button keycaps and secure with the menu button washers.
3. Base
   1. Open up your USB-B cable and solder to a USB-C breakout board.
   2. Glue the breakout board in place.
   3. Glue the menu button switches in place.
   4. Glue the latching side button switch in place.
   5. Insert the side button cap. Slide a toothpick (or similar) through the hole to lock it in place. Trim the toothpick just under the lid.
   6. Lay down your LED strips, using the base plate as a guide. Double-check that they're oriented correctly. It's a good idea to tin the pads before placing them.
   7. Lay wires in the channels in the base.
   8. Glue the base plate in place.
   9. Solder the LEDs together. Add the 1 Ohm resistor here.
   10. Connect up the menu buttons desired. I have the one on the bottom connected to the touchpad and the side button as an LED toggle.
   11. Manage cables through to the lid.
4. Connections
   1. Trim your wires to length, strip the ends, twist them, and insert them through the guides into the correct screw mounts on your Brook board.
   2. Insert the USB-B into the Brook board.
5. Test