MG Midget/Austin Healey Sprite Center Radio Console

This is an upgrade & slight redesign of the center radio console found in MG Midgets/Austin Healey Sprites. It is roughly 2½"/64mm narrower than the factory metal console, for some added knee room. It is also about ¼"/6mm shorter, so installing/removing it is a little bit easier.

This console also features:

 - A single DIN radio slot.

 - (2) 3" speakers, (1) on each side. Ø90mm bolt circle/74mm body. (I used Magnadyne WR30B)

 - (2) LED courtesy lights, (1) on each side.(These are wired to the factory map light, so they     turn on when the doors open & when the map light switch is turned on.)

 - (2) locations for Ø2 1/16" auxiliary gauges.

 - (1) 30mm hole for mounting a three port USB charging plug.

The console also retains the factory hazard switch and the factory map light. For mounting the hazard light relay, I recommend sticking it to the inside of the console with some velcro. 

For assembly, the parts all screw together using M3 flat-head machine screws. If wanted, some glue can also be used to make it even more secure. The following parts are required:

 - (57) M3 heat-set thread inserts.

 - (57) M3x6mm flathead machine screws.

 - (8) M4 heat-set thread inserts.

 - (8) M4x10mm Socket cap machine screws.

The models are tailored to fit a 300x300mm print bed and you can print the whole unit in (4) prints.

Print #1 - Front Plate(This piece is folded after printing & fastened to the side plates)

Print #2 - Left Side & Right Side Plates

Print #3 - Top & Bottom Plates

Print #4 - Back Plate

The top & bottom plates are optional. The console will work just fine if they're omitted.

For material, I highly recommend at least ABS/ASA, as PLA would most likely soften & warp pretty quickly, since the area where the radio console gets mounted is actually quite warm due to the heater. I printed mine in ASA on a Creality K1 Max running Creality Slicer's generic ABS profile. Supports are required for the MG logo in the front plate & the LED light pockets in the side plates. I'd also recommend setting your slicer to “inner/outer/infill” for the perimeter walls. The corners are technically overhangs, so if you have it set to print the outer wall first it will have poor quality on the leading corners. 

I also coated my completed console in Raptor Linear Rubberized Undercoating($18/can @ AutoZone) in order to give it some texture.

If you find this item useful and would like to help me buy more filament, please consider sending a tip/donation my way: https://donate.stripe.com/00g4ie8hm9Gg8hydQQ