Smart Orbiter 3 for BLV cube, metal kit

Hello, first ever upload of a project so im still a newb at this. 

This is a package to add the smart orbiter 3 to the BLV Vube with a metal kit. For more information on the BLV project see here → BLV mgn Cube - Overview | BLVprojects. For more information on the Smart Orbiter 3, see → Smart Orbiter v3.0 – ORBITER PROJECTS. Shout outs to Ben Levi on making the CAD for Carraige of the BLV cube available and Dr Róbert Lőrincz making the smart orbiter 3 mockup model available. Could not have made these files without them.

This set has 2 fan options and retains the DC42 IR probe for both. Both use the small microswitch that comes with the Blue rolls metal kit for the x-axis end stop. Use either a single rear 7530 rear fan or a dual set of front 5015 fans. The dual front 5105 setup allows for an alternative z-probe mounted in the rear which are already out there for you to download.

The orbiter mounting plate requires the metal kit. You can use the metal belt retainers or the classic zipties and superglue method.  The base plate should be printed in ASA or ABS due to the proximity to the hotend. note that I printed mine without cooling fans originally.  The plate is universal for the 2 cooling fans and could be used for other fans or bed probes. It should have the nozzle centered to the carriage, so its heavy on the right side. The main mounting plate does have fun order of operation game to play. 1st you need to get a screw (i think it was a m3 x 8 or m3 x 6) and put it thru the front printed plate; it will be the left middle counterbored hole. We are going to partially cover it with the extruder. Then mount the orbiter to the plate with the 4 screws. Note that one is shorter for the lower right corner (when looking at the front of the machine). Build up the metal carriage on machine and square it up, but no belts yet.  Now remove the rear plate but leave the standoffs to the front plate. next take the top metal plate off the carriage and then make sure the center screw in the front plate is extra tight. Remove the 2 upper screws to the top plate.  Now mount the belts to the front plate. we are about to cover them. Now put the orbiter that's attached to the printed mount on the front metal plate: 1st that screw from the beginning can now thread it using a ball end allen key, (leave this loose till the end) then a screw in each top corner thru the front plate and screwed into the top metal plate. Now there is a center rear screw that mount on the back of the front plate and goes into the insert on the printed mount. Now assemble the carriage as normal, go back and get that 1st screw we put in and make sure its tight too. Note that you can use either method to attach the belts to the front plate, there is room for the metal belt claps and screws! it could have been thinner without the need for the metal belt clamps, so if you remix, note the 7530 duct is really dependent on where that nozzle moves in relation to the carriage!

The 7530 reduced the max Y-travel by and required moving the end stop (i consider end of the rails end of travel stock). Its deeper than I would like due to clearing the stock metal kit X-axis endstop. This design was a MUCH harder to mount the duct and sensor. The duct requires the 1.4mm PCB sandwiched between the carriage and the duct. suggest m2.5 socket head screws and a ball end allen key. The duct has 2 M3 counterbores and again, you really need that ball end socket for the screws.  this was a cleaner design from the front for sure. Output was marginal but produced ok results with ASA. was more balanced doe to rear fan. the 7530 fans are extremely quiet, but the hotend fan drowns it out. if you run the hotend fan at low speeds, this might be the duct for you, but IMO the 5015s were better. 

The dual 5015s had great output but are front heavy. due to the BLV cube design WITHOUT and enclosure, there is no travel reduction. The 5015 are cheap and plentiful in all kinds of configurations. The design is easier to mount but covers access to the orbiter's 2nd drive gear. this should not be an issue at all unless you need to get into it to clear TPU jams. Output was much stronger on the 5015s. Each fan had more output, IMO, than the 7530 I acquired, but your milage may vary.  I wired each fan individually to the duet 2 Wifi using Klipper, so just set multipins to fan0 and fan1 so they work together when controlled as the part cooling fan.  

Each design ‘s top has a mount to run the wiring up in a bundle to try and get some strain relief on the wires.  They have a spot to mount the ebay/amazon special ADXL345 we all know and love these days. They likely need a small revision to include zip tie holes in the tower to allow you to run a ziptie into the tower sides and sinch the wires to the tower ’s back.  I might come back and add tops with can bus mounts in the near future……….

These parts require m3 heatset inserts around 5mm OD to function correctly. I'll be honest, I have so many m3 screws from the kit and other kits I didn't write them all down, but your favorites will be m3 x 8mm and m3 x 10mm. Will need a few longer screws for the fans.

I printed each part without a cooling fan in Polymaker ASA and must say it turned out ok. the top plates and base mount can be printed without support. The fan mounts should get tree support, but the 5015 turned out ok with light cooling and no support (internal bridging and the arch near the 2nd gear access cover being the big sag culprits on my printer).

Thanks, and good luck with these,

CB