Chromance - RGB Wall Remix

This project is a remix of Zack Freedman's Chromance. 
 

Key enhancements include:

• Optimized Part Design:
  All parts are designed to be support-free, featuring built-in supports suitable for a 0.6 nozzle. Supports can be easily removed with needle-nose pliers.
   

• ESP32 D1 Mini Mount:
  Incorporated a custom mount for the ESP32 D1 Mini in the bottom node with an optional INMP441 Omnidirectional Microphone Module.
   

• Versatile Node Design:
  Added a "solid" node option alongside the open node. This allows selective opening of facets with a knife for customized light patterns. Both node styles use the same middle node for simplicity. I still like the original open design.
   

• Lighting and Control:
  WLED Over Custom OS: Unlike the original which used a custom OS, this version utilizes WLED configured for GPIO 16 on the ESP32.
   

• LED Configuration: 
  The design features a continuous run of 560 WS2812B LEDs. A diagram (created in Paint, sorry) and a detailed path.txt file are provided for guidance.
   

• Custom Programming Potential: For those interested in custom programming, Arduino code is provided to map each LED segment. This allows for creative programming using FastLED.
   

• Sample Configuration Files: 
  I have included sample configs for both the normal and audioreactive versions. Both use 3 types of presets, string, segments, mandla. Start with one of the base presets and tweak them from there. This allows for the most options for displays. The segments and mandla versions I have created to be symmetrical.
   

• Extra Guest Preset Html: 
  I have included an extra preset-html.txt file that you can rename to preset.html and upload to the WLED device using the http://WLED/edit link, it will allow you to just select presets and nothing else, no editing, no deleting, safe for guests to select presets but nothing else.

Parts List and Links:

(Note: Prices may vary, I paid about $200 to make mine, so it's advisable to shop around for the best deals.)

1x 5V 15A 75W Power Supply $21
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9Q4DV1

2x WS2812B RGB 5050SMD Individual Addressable 16.4FT 60Pixels/m 300Pixels $66
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDTEG1O

1x Aluminum Extrusion Profile $50
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078J143MN

1x ESP32 D1 Mini ESP-32 $16
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FWXFSVN

INMP441 Omnidirectional Microphone Module
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09G4RNT3G

1x 10ft 14AWG 12V DC Extension Cable $15
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L6LJ5F4

1x 22 AWG Stranded Wire Silicone $20
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089D29FHC

1x Kapton High Temp Tape $9
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Z92QZ2

1x Epoxy $6
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Instant-0-47-Fluid-Syringe-1365868/dp/B0044F9KFI/

(Zack Freedman has instructions on his page if you get hung up, here are mine)

Assembly Instructions:

3D Printing: Print various nodes as detailed:

3D print 19 RegularNode-19x.stl models.
3D print 3 TopCenterNode.-3x.stl models.
3D print 1 TopRightNode-1x.stl model.
3D print 1 TopLeftNode-1x.stl model.
3D print 1 BottomCenterNodeD1Mini-v2.-1x.stl model.
3D print 1 BottomCenterNodeD1MiniCover-v2.-1x model.

Preparing Aluminum Rails and Covers:

• Miter Box Setup: 

Acquire a miter box and attach a movable endstop to create a jig. This will help in making 80 precise cuts.

• Cutting Aluminum Rails: 

Set the endstop to measure 25cm and cut the aluminum rails to this length. You'll need to cut 40 pieces.

• Adjusting for White Covers: 

After cutting the rails, adjust the endstop to 23cm for cutting the 40 white covers.

Gluing and Soldering:

• Epoxy Preparation: 

Mix small batches of Epoxy at a time. Use it to glue a few rails to the nodes. Aim to complete about 4 nodes before each epoxy batch begins to set.

• Protecting Surfaces: 

Place blue painter's tape beneath each glued joint to protect the floor from any epoxy drips.

• Curing: 

Allow the glued rails and nodes to cure for 24 hours.

Preparing LED Strips:

• Cutting LED Strips: 

Divide both LED strips into 40 segments, each containing 14 LEDs.

• Tinning LED Contacts: 

Tin all 240 LED solder points (3 on each side of each strip).

Wiring and Insulation:

• Insulating with Kapton Tape: 

Apply Kapton tape on the rails directly under where each LED strip ends to prevent short circuits during later soldering.

• Cutting Wires: 

Cut 74 red and 74 black 22 AWG wires to a length that suits your setup.

Also, cut 13 smaller gauge wires for data lines.

• Additional Data Wires: 

Prepare 2 smaller gauge data wires to bridge two node paths (S to Y and U to I). Secure them out of the way with hot glue (avoiding the channel the diffuser will snap into).

Daisy-Chain and Soldering:

• Creating Daisy-Chains: 

Form daisy-chains of wires in each color (red and black).: 
10 with 3-wires
2 with 4-wires
4 with 5-wires 
1 with 6-wires 
 

• Tinning Daisy-Chains: 

Tin each end of the daisy-chain wires, trimming the ends to about 3mm. Ensure the twists are tight to avoid unraveling.

• Soldering to Nodes: 

Solder these chains at every node with more than two connections, ensuring each strip is connected at every node to two other strips.

• Bottom Strip Wiring: 

Connect the LED strips at the bottom to each other, the ESP32 D1 Mini, and the power connector. Use shrink tubing to insulate the connections.

Final Steps:

• Securing the D1 Mini: 

Choose a method to secure the D1 Mini in place. I hot-glued mine.

• Soldering Final Connections: 

Solder the 11 wires (5 red, 5 black, 1 green) to the two strips in the base and the D1 Mini.

• Inserts and Cover: 

Heat press in two 3mm brass inserts and secure the cover with screws.

• Programming: 

Program the ESP32 D1 mini using https://install.wled.me/

Follow the instructions here if you want it audio reactive with the INMP441.
https://mm.kno.wled.ge/WLEDSR/Digital-Microphone-Hookup/

My WLED configuration and preset files are available for use in downloads.

My TinkerCAD files:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7RWmKyJCPZG-chromance-rgb-wall-remix

Note that this is 560 LEDs, at full brightness they can pull 23 Amps (110 watts).

The power supply I used was 15A, so I have capped it in WLED to 11A.

YOU CAN BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN IF YOU TRY TO RUN THIS AT FULL BRIGHTNESS FOR A PERIOD OF TIME! (and burn up the power supply you used)

YOU CANNOT USE THOSE GREEN TERMINALS LIKE I HAVE IN ONE OF MY EARLIER PICTURES, THEY ARE 3A ONLY AND WILL MELT AND START A FIRE!

I still don't trust leaving mine on unattended yet, and neither should you, this thing pulls real current (hence the 22 AWD wire I used everywhere between nodes).

Videos of mine in action:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OPd5J3CVa2g

• Here is the link to Zack's Video (it also contains links to his original version and his instructions)

https://thangs.com/designer/ZackFreedman/3d-model/Chromance%20-%20RGB%20Wall%20Installation-15979

 https://voidstar.dozuki.com/Guide/Chromance+Assembly+Instructions/6

WLED Presets, Segments, and Playlists

I have included the JSON preset file I created for this project. The setup uses 31 segments, 53 presets, and two playlists. The installation is audio-reactive, although not every preset uses the audio-reactive effects.

The two playlists are:

• Art Playlist: Uses non-audio-reactive presets.

• Sound Playlist: Uses audio-reactive presets.

Both playlists randomly cycle through the appropriate presets.

Base Presets and Display Types

At the top of the preset list are three presets named Base xxxx. These are starting points for the three different ways the LEDs can be divided and controlled:

Base Mandla M
The display is divided into symmetrical sections. The middle segments are mirrored and flipped where necessary so that effects and movement remain symmetrical across the entire piece.

Base Parts P
This is similar to the Mandla layout, but it also includes the two upper outside sections, or "ears," on the left and right sides of the display.

Base String S
The entire installation is treated as one continuous 560-LED string, following the physical route of the LED strip through the piece. No attempt is made to create mirrored or symmetrical sections.

The photos show the difference between these arrangements. The Mandla layout concentrates on the symmetrical center structure, Parts adds the upper outside sections, and String allows effects to travel continuously along the actual path of the LED strip.

Preset Naming Convention

Each effect preset begins with a two-letter code identifying both its display layout and whether it reacts to sound.

The first letter identifies the layout:

The second letter identifies the effect type:

For example:

• MA = Mandla layout, Art effect

• MS = Mandla layout, Sound-reactive effect

• PA = Parts layout, Art effect

• PS = Parts layout, Sound-reactive effect

• SA = String layout, Art effect

• SS = String layout, Sound-reactive effect

The Art Playlist randomly cycles through the Art presets, while the Sound Playlist randomly cycles through the sound-reactive presets.

Creating New Presets

When creating a new preset, I recommend starting by loading one of the three Base presets.

The Base presets establish the correct segment arrangement for the selected display type and set the initial color to white. Once the appropriate Base preset is loaded, the effect, colors, speed, intensity, palette, and other settings can be changed as desired and then saved as a new preset.

Starting from the correct Base preset is important because the physical installation consists of a single continuous 560-LED strip, but the logical segment arrangement changes depending on the type of effect being created.

For example, in the Mandla and Parts layouts, individual portions of the physical LED strip are assigned to separate segments and some are mirrored or reversed to produce symmetrical movement. Segment 1, for example, represents LEDs 28 through 42 in these layouts.

The String layout is completely different. It treats the entire 560-LED installation as one continuous segment, so effects simply travel along the physical route of the strip.

There are also differences between Mandla and Parts. Mandla does not use segments 30 and 31, while Parts does, since those additional segments control the upper outside "ears." The String layout does not use the additional segmented arrangement at all.

Because WLED stores the current segment configuration as part of a preset, modifying an existing preset that was created for a different layout can result in incorrect segment sizes, directions, mirroring, or enabled/disabled segments. Loading the appropriate Base preset first avoids most of these problems.

WLED Preset/Playlist JSON Issue

There is also a WLED JSON issue that can appear when a large number of presets and playlists are stored.

After repeatedly editing playlists, WLED may begin adding large amounts of unnecessary whitespace to the preset JSON file. Over time, hundreds of spaces can accumulate at the end of individual entries. Eventually this can consume the available preset storage and cause an "out of space" error.

When this happens, I export the preset JSON file, manually clean up the extra whitespace and correct the playlist ordering if necessary, then import the cleaned file back into WLED.

After cleaning the JSON, playlist editing generally becomes usable again until the file begins accumulating the unwanted whitespace again.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

VoronDesign

Printer:

Voron Trident 350

Supports:

No

Infill:

20%

Notes:

I used a 0.6 nozzle and 0.3 layer height.

The built-in supports are designed for 0.6 so that they are 1 thickness wide.

The built-in supports are designed with a 0.3 layer height so that the upper overhangs are 1 layer above the top of the supports.

Category: Sculptures