K1 and possibly the MAX, bed frame Z height adjusters.

If you already have a method to adjust your K1/K1 Max bed height, then these will not be worth your time to print and install.

Thanks to @Henlor for a great model of the stock K1 part as my starting point.

Parts needed:

• 2x M3 40mm screws
• 4x M3 12mm screws
• 4x M3 washers
• 6x M3 Self-Lock Nylon Inserted Hex Lock Nuts (Amazon)

These will not get you a perfect level bed but will save you some time:

• no printing shims over and over, and unscrewing the bed frame mount to install the shim.
• no turning the printer on its side to adjust the belt.

This will allow you to fine-tune your bed Z-height.

Print these in the file orientation; supports are required. ASA or ABS @ 100% infill (I know, but I had shrinkage on the main part at the start above the supports.) I don't want any minor changes in these parts because they will affect the z-height of the bed.

Follow the photos for the assembly of the adjusters. Set the adjuster to the middle of its adjustment. Note that when installing the washers, most are stamped out of metal, and there will be a rounded side and a rough side. Install the rounded side toward the printed part; this should prevent the washer from digging into the printed part.

I am on an out-of-state work trip and will add the photos of the removal of the stock mounts and the installation. Right now, I will provide the written instructions for those who want to install these.

NOTE: This upgrade to the rear requires way more disassembly than I am willing to do, so this is only for the two front mounts. 

1. Home all axis, then lower the bed to the middle of the Z-axis.
2. Power down the printer. 
3. Do one side at a time.
4. Remove the side panel on the side you are working on.
5. Remove the screws holding the bed frame to the mount; you might need to support the bed frame before removing these screws.
6. Remove the four screws holding the lead screw nut onto the mount. 
7. Remove the screws holding the lead screw stabilizer from the top of the lead screw. See photos for the locations; note the left side will require using a razor blade knife to get the plastic strip to lift enough to gain access to the front screw, and on the right, you will need to cut a small amount of the door foam to access that front screw.
8. Spin the lead screw nut off the top of the lead screw.
9. The lead screw and guide rod can now bend a little; this is needed to remove the old Z mount. Remove the old mount off the top of the lead screw and guide rod.
10. Remove the screw from the old mount that holds the guide rod bearing.
11. To remove the bearing, I used the spool spindle to rap the mount so the bearing would fall into the middle opening of the spindle.
12. Install the guide rod bearing. You need to press it gently, depending on your printer's tolerances. Don't force in; you may never get it out if you need to.
13. Install the bearing retaining screw.
14. Slide the mount over the lead screw and guide rod.
15. Spin the Z nut back onto the lead screw.
16. Reinstall the lead screw stabilizer and screws.
17. Adjust the bed frame height at the mount location to the same height as the rear height.
18. Spin down the Z lead screw nut to the new mount, don't force the mount down; get as close as you can to the height as in step 17.
19. Aline the screw holes on the lead screw nut with the mount; install one screw at this time.
20. If you use Fluidd or Mainsail, heat the bed to the temp you typically print, then the next step. If not, use the bed leveling provided on the front screens menu.
21. Home all axis. From Fluidd or Mainsail, trigger a calibration of the bed mesh. You want to adjust the side you replaced to match the rear center reading. Tightening the adjustment screw will move the bed down; loosening will raise the bed. If you are off around 1.8mm +/-, then remove the lead screw nut mount screw, turn the lead nut a ¼ turn (right = up[+], left = down[-]), and reinstall the screw holding the lead nut.
22. When you are done adjusting, do the other side and return to step 1. If you have done both sides, then I hope this makes adjusting the bed z-height much easier for you.
23. Install the other screws into the lead screw nuts.
24. Do one last bed mesh calibration and if you used Fluidd or Mainsail don't forget to save the bed mesh. To ensure the mash gets used; power cycle the printer.

If I missed something, or a step, or needed information for others, please comment so I can see about updating this information.