Remington hair clipper internal oscilating arm replacement
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Internal plastic oscilating arm replacement
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Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- Bathroom
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Attribution
The original part broke, you can see the crack along the side of the hole for the shaft, it is the one marked as “Original” in the photo and the crack is in the red part
I designed an exact copy with all the relevant dimensions, the small differences are to make it easier to design and print, me or you don't care about 1 or 2 extra grams of plastic but the manufacturer does
That part lasted less than a month, you can see the result in the photo with the “Version 1” on it, the exact same spot, the other crack i think it is because when it originally broke the springs at the sides of the part moved it and since i printed in PLA which doesn't allow any flex was sheared clean due to that peak of extra stress because of the springs tension
So the original design part has a flaw and of course also the printed copy, i modified it with extra thickness in that area and it is working as expected
The files uploaded have been in the machine for months and it is fine so i think it is safe to upload it now so anyone else can use it
I show how i printed, as it is in the STL file with support at the bottom and in the two ball sides for the springs, i used organic supports because when i did it was a beta feature and i wanted to try it but you can print with the type you like more, i don't think it will matter much
I used 100% infill because the part will experience heavy loads inside the machine and it was only 1 or 2 extra grams, i prefer to not risk the part to just try to save cents
FILES
I uploaded the STL for that people who just want to print it but also a STEP file and the F3D. I use Fusion 360 as my CAD software so is the one from the source, the rest of the files were generated from it
The extra files are there in case you need any modification of any sort, my first attempt (before the one which broke) had the exact diameter hole for the brass insert. It didn't go in, no even pushing real hard. I added extra clearance at that central hole to allow for printed parts some room but the brass bushing should have no play at all once inserted
This means that if you print on a really accurate printer like any SLA type the hole will be loose since the cylinder shaft will be totally perfect and too big since the clearance is not needed. Or the opposite, my printer is not really good but maybe yours is even worse and need more space or it is not calibrated at all. Having the parametric files will allow you to modify and suit your specific 3D printer
