Marker Baron skibinding rear plate

These are 2 models of the rear plate of an older model of Marker's Baron binding. It cannot be used for the newer Baron EPF. Marker does not seem to have any spare parts for older bindings (I called them and asked) and eventually these plastic parts will crack or break, like mine did. The 2 versions are:

1. Complete: whole plate trying to recreate the original one, with a saddle for the skitour walking clip. Will take a long time to print.
2. Short: just the essential part which is holding the back part of the binding. This one won't work if you are still planning to use the walking mode of the binding. Prints in appr. 3 hours.

Filament:  

I've printed this with eSun PLA+ and also PA-CF. Obviously PA-CF is stronger but if you use the right PLA+ it should also be OK. The key part of the strength for this application is layer adhesion. My first attempts with the standard settings for PA-CF failed because the part broke on the layers when testing. 

My final settings for PA-CF were:

• 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle
• 0.2mm layer heights in Quality setting (Prusa)
• print in a room with low humidity or better in an enclosure if possible
• dry the filament for at least 16h. I've dried mine for >24h at 80°C in one of these cheap filament dryers which will never reach 80°C anyway :-)
• use some glue-stick or some glueing-solution like e.g. 3Dmilk and coat the printbed
• pre-heat the bed for 5-10 minutes at 60°C so the enclosure and bed will get warm
• nozzle-temp: 275°C for all layers
• bed-temp: 60°C
• cooling: OFF (!! otherwise your layer adhesion won't be strong enough)

For PLA+ I've used these settings:

• nozzle-temp: 215°C for all layers
• bed-temp: 60°C
• cooling: 60% max

The natural white PLA+ from eSun seems to be the strongest one when compared with other colors. Black PLA+ didn't succeed in my strength tests.

Printing position:

I've printed mine laying flat on the bed but I thought about re-printing it standing upwards or sidewards to avoid layer weekness for the 2 rails on the sides which have to hold the whole weight of the skier.

Supports:

Print with supports and brims with >5mm. 

Infill: 

I've used 100% for better strength

Word of caution:

This is just a replacement part for my own application. I cannot guarantee that it will be strong enough to hold. If it will break, then your binding may get loose and you will risk having an accident. Use at your own risk and stay safe!