Unlevel edge portable hangboard
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With this hangboard all your fingers to be in the same half crimp position, so that every finger will be loaded evenly.
- Ocena
- 5 / 5
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- 14
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- 202
- Wydruki
- 1
- Wyświetlenia
- 2505
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- 1
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Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- Outdoor Sports
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
Most hangboards have a flat edge, and as a result when training your fingers in the half crimp position, most of the load will be on the middle 2 fingers. This is because some fingers are longer than others.
This is an unlevel edge hangboard, also known as uneven edge hangboard. It has an insert to make it unlevel, to compensate for differences in finger size, and as a result you can load your fingers much more evenly. According to Dr. Tyler Nelson, this allows for more recruitment and could therefore be beneficial for strength training.
The insert can be customized for your fingers, this one is optimized for me (index and ring fingers are 7mm shorter than the middle finger, and the pinky is another 14mm shorter still). Feel free to send me copies of inserts that match your finger anatomy, and I will add them. Ideally at some point we will have a library of inserts so that every climber can find an insert that works well for their fingers.
Currently the insert is an exact fit for the hangboard, and it will be jam into place. If you can't print that precisely than I recommend printing it at 99% and then glueing it.
I printed this hangboard with 4 wall layers, 25% triangle infil, no support no brim, with ABS. This worked well and it can hold my weight quite easily. I use a 4mm prusik cord (that can hold 400kg) to hang it up, or to attach it to my tindeq for precise finger training.
Video and explanation:
Note: this is my first design, so I'm sure there is room for improvement. Feel free to remix it and improve it, just let me know what files you need to do this.
Edit: @plun did exactly that! See his model for rounded edges of this design: https://www.printables.com/model/872281-rounded-unlevel-edge-hangboard-custom-insert