24v 235x235mm Heated Bed Guide for the Mega Zero v1.0 (SKR Mini MZ)
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This is my 24v 235x235mm Heated Bed Upgrade Guide for the Mega Zero v1.0!
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This is my 24v Heated Bed Upgrade Guide for the Mega Zero v1.0!
This is for the SKR Mini MZ Board - the stock board is 24v compatible but lacks the power control MOSFETs for a heated bed.
Major benefits of going 24v are:
- Faster bed and HE heat up times
- You can use Ender 3 Beds with 170x170mm mount spacing
- No bed adapter plates are required
- You get a bigger usable print area
- You can still use bed leveling wheels
Prerequisites :
1/ A 24v Power Supply - the Stock PSU is only 12v and will not work with this upgrade. The Mean Well LRS-350-24 is my recommended choice. (Make sure your fans and heater cart are 24v rated)
https://www.digikey.com.au/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/LRS-350-24/7705034
2/ 4x M4 Bolts and 4x M4 Bed Thumbwheels (you will need to drill out the Y-carriage mount holes from 3mm to 4mm)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001391148294.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dhKuTSs
3/ An Ender 3 Heated bed (235x235mm)
5/ A Magnetic Spring-steel PEI Build Plate kit (235x235mm)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000069783592.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dhKuTSs
7/ Cable Strain Relief for the Print bed Cabling:
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/80998-anycubic-mega-zero-heated-bed-cable-strain-relief-
or
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/84884-heated-bed-cable-strain-relief-bracket
8/ Cable Ties / Zip ties
Either 2.6mm wide or 3.5mm wide
9/ Cable Management Clips (highly recommended):
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4144671
Bed Installation:
1/ Install the new Power Supply using your preferred method:
Here are 2 good options:
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/81000-anycubic-mega-zero-rear-mount-for-mean-well-lrs-35
or
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792529https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/80985-anycubic-mega-zero-v10-horizontal-mount-for-mean-w
2/ Remove old Bed by removing the levelling wheels
3/ Install Cable Management bracket onto rear Bed adapter bracket with Superglue. You can do this later, but it's easier without the bed in the way.
4/ Drill out the Y-carriage Bed mount holes from 3.5mm to 4.5mm.
5/ Install Bed into Printer - I recommend adding M4 nuts to the underside of the bed to ensure stability. I added a dash of super glue to ensure they don't vibrate loose.
I recommend using 25mm tall springs as 20mm springs may cause clearance issues with the Y-axis end-stop. Other options (eg silicone, printed etc) are not recommended as they can cause bed stability issues at high temps.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33001295923.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4eb94c4drx9aHb
6/ Install magnetic surface or Glass bed onto the Aluminium plate.
7/ Run the heated bed cable down and under the V-rails or use a cable snake to keep it from snagging during printing. Use a zip-tie to fix the cable bundle to the Cable Strain Relief Bracket.
I used a Cable Management Clip and Zip-tie to fix the cables to the chassis rail. Make sure there is enough cable for the bed to move through its full range of motion.
Electrical Installation:
1/ Install Bed wiring as per the SKR Mini MZ documentation.
2/ Install KAD Mega Zero FW or Klipper FW
https://github.com/kad/Marlin/wiki#installing-firmware
3/ PID Autotune the Bed temps:
(use Octoprint Terminal)
M303 E-1 S60 U1
4/ Re-level the Bed via whichever process you use.
5/ Enjoy your 3D Printer!