Prusa i3 Mk4 X Gantry Thermometer Holder

Background

I recently moved and my printer is now in the basement. My basement is pretty cool, so I needed an enclosure for anything more technical than PLA. I have a webcam in the enclosure, and I wanted to be able to see the temperature while the print was running. I also wanted to see the temperature at the level of the nozzle, since there will be some variance in temperature as the gantry rises through the print. Also, because I am remote viewing via webcam outside the house, I needed to have fairly large numbers on the display so I could see them easily.

Part(s) Needed

For this holder, I designed for this thermometer specifically:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N92NRYN

This thermometer has large numbers and is battery powered.

The update time seems to be reasonable, but not super fast.

Design Features

1. Will NOT be hit by the extruder assembly during a print, even if the extruder goes all the way to the right. There is about 1mm of clearence between the temometer basket and the extruder.
2. Holes placed in the model to keep the sampling ports (for lack of a better term) open and exposed to the air in the enclosure.
3. 30 degree angle for easy reading from the front of the enclosure and also from a downward facing camera.
4. Holes in the top back to allow reinstallation of the bearing cover bolts once it is in place.

Printing Settings

• If this is going into an enclosure, I recommend printing in PETG or better, not PLA.
• I printed mine with a .25mm nozzle at .15mm layer height. I think Prusa recommedns .2mm layer heigh for their printed parts. This will probably print fine that way. Considering it's a structural part, I suggest printing with 5 walls for strength.
• See the orientation I sliced in the pictures above. You want the “face” of the bearing cover to be on the build plate.
• Use organic supports. So satisfying to take off once the print is done!
• I used a modifer block to ensure the bearing cover was at 100% infill. The rest doesn't need that strength.

Assembly

1. When printing is complete, remove the print from the plate and turn the printer off.
2. Gently tip the printer on its “back”. I suggest placing something under the top of the frame to hold the printer roughly level.
3. Use your 2.5mm allen key to gently remove the bolts from the bearing cover. Note there are two sizes of bolts.
4. Gently slid the cover to the bottom of the printer. The breaing may move with it. If it doesn, once the cover is clear, the bearing can be pushed back up into the gantry frame gently.
5. Transfer the rubber peices from the old bearing cover to the new one in hte same spot. They will be on the inside in a recess.
6. Carefully slide the new bearing cover with thermometer tray onto the gantry. Watch closely, as the rubber peices may try to pop out.
7. Reinstall the four bolts and tighten to a “snug tight” fit. There may be some fiddling with the bottom bolts due to the angle needed with the allen key. Be patient!
8. Once complete, carefully tip the printer upright, and verify the extruder does not strike the thermometer holder.
9. Reconnect the printer to power. 
10. If you want additional verification of clearence, run an XYZ calibration from the control menu.
11. Post your make!

Remix needed?

You can remix to your heart's content here!

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/h0b2mdy6qZF-copy-of-x-axis-try-1/edit?sharecode=fdN6r2l1gjIPgTtIJJoKmsKnMW50XR4FQ4gezNo-HsE

Please duplicate the model before continuing in TinkerCAD so that others may use the model as well.