Starlink Standard Actuated DIY Flatmount railmount
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DIY railmount for Starlink actuated antenna (dishy). Prints in 6 pieces, reinforced with aluminum flat bar.
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- Printables
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- Creative Commons — Attribution — NoDerivatives
I live on a boat and wanted to rail mount my starlink antenna. I saw a great video by Everlanders with a similar idea that inspired this project, but they surface mounted theirs, and I couldn't get their model to work for my use case, so I started from scratch. So my model is inspired by his, but doesn't use his model at all. I had an additional requirement that it had to print on a Prusa Mini because that is what I have on my boat.

My version:
- Is rail mounted using Magma grill mounts. Mine is on my solar arch. These are common in marine oriented stores and are available for a variety of rail sizes.
- Accommodates either removing or leaving the tripod arm intact. I recommend removing the arm and motors (you can do this without harming the water tightness of the antenna chamber). On a boat, these antennas work better aimed straight up.
- Is very strong and stable. Has withstood 40 knots of wind, rock solid, I'm confident it can take much more.
- Prints in 6 pieces on a Prusa Mini. I used PETG.
If you want to do this project, I recommend you get started by watching this video:
Keep in mind his project is not my project. His just inspired mine. If you want to surface mount, go ahead and use his. Mine is good because you can rail (or arch) mount which is great for boats.
Here are the parts you need for the mount itself:
- Aluminum Flat Bar: https://amzn.to/3TLYwue
- Glue. I used gorilla glue: https://amzn.to/43PuBpA
- Magma rail mounts. These are super strong and really good. Make sure you get the size for your rail. https://amzn.to/3J7VLOV
- Assortment of 5mm stainless button head bolts, washers, nuts.
Directions: Print all the pieces. Cut the brims and wind skirts off the pieces. Rough up mating surfaces with sandpaper. Put glue on mating surfaces and the pegs, insert into the holes, and use elastic bungie cords to tension all the parts together. Put the aluminum bar into the slots. Wait overnight for the glue to dry. Insert Magma clamps Drill holes through the aluminum bars and the Magma arms using the holes in the plastic as guides. Bolt together. Prepare your Starlink by roughing up mating surface to prepare for glue. Cut out tripod arm if desired. Test fit Starlink. You may need to sand and dremel a little to get the Starlink to “snap” into place. Once it “snaps” in, spread glue, and glue into place. Mount. Enjoy.
If you are going to convert to DC (highly recommended, I use ⅓ of the power compared to AC) I was successful with these parts:
- Crimp Tool: https://amzn.to/3SviI4r
- Shielded rj45 connectors: https://amzn.to/46W96UU
- Waterproof rj45: https://amzn.to/3Qqr2jb
- Power supply. You can probably get away with 3 amp, but I got 6. https://amzn.to/49nDfOA
- POE injector: https://amzn.to/3QrPJvS
- You need a router too. Travel routers are power efficient. I like https://amzn.to/3J7WiAw with this power supply https://amzn.to/3FKupg0