Wobble-X WS12 Solution

I successfully implemented this on my Ender 3.

The system is comprised of the top wobble-x bracket, the left and right hangers, the middle wobble-x bracket (biscuit), the bottom bracket, and the z-axis motor mount. I use dual z-axis lead screws so I am using both the left and right hangers. The hangers are non-standard and are specifically adapted for the Ender 3 Black Knight linear rail kit. Additional non-printed hardware includes the Wobble-X WS12; a 30mm OD, 1.6mm thick, 25mm long spring; and a bunch of M3 hardware: screws, inserts, lock-washers, t-nuts and lock-nuts.

This is what I did:

1) Add 4, 4mm M3 heat inserts into the spacer ends of each top bracket. 

2) Add 4, 4mm M3 heat inserts into the top side of each top bracket.

2) Insert the wobble-x rails into the top bracket and the middle bracket.

3) Attach the left and right hangers to the x-axis gantry. 

4) Attach the top brackets to the left and right hangers. 4 M3 8mm screws, and 4 M3 lock washers.

4) Attach the middle brackets to the lead screws. I used 4 M3 16mm screws and 4 M3 lock nuts. I inverted the assembly so that the head of the screw is on the bottom. Then when I thread the lock nut on the other side of the middle bracket it fills the hole and prevents a ball bearing from getting stuck in the hole. 

5) Fit the spring then the bottom bracket around the bottom of the lead screws. The bottom bracket has a cut-out on one side that the spring fits into.

6) Fit the lead screws with the bottom bracket, spring, middle bracket, and the wobble-x body through the hole in the hanger.

7) Insert the ball bearings on either side of the wobble-x body. This can be done any time but often trying to fit this assembly through the hole in the hanger would cause one or more bearings to fall out.

8) Fit everything together and secure the bottom bracket to the top bracket spacers using 4 8mm M3 screws.

9) Attach the motor mounts to the z-axis motors using four 8mm M3 screws. Attach 4 8mm M3 screws into the base of the motor mount and loosely secure them with 4 M3 T-nuts.

10) Insert the z-axis motor and mount into the v-slots and slide them roughly into position under each lead screw.

11) lower (twist) the lead screw until the bottom just touches the top of the motor coupler. Then do some fine adjustment on the position of the motor to make sure that the z screws are as straight as possible. Then insert the lead screw into the coupler and secure it.

I have finally been able to eliminate z-axis banding in my prints. It took a long time, a lot of trial and error and probably a spool of ABS to get this right! I threw in some pictures of a calibration cube I made. The cube isn't perfect but it illustrates how good the layers are.

I printed everything in ABS. Print as oriented in the stl files. The left and right hangers should be printed on the side with the wall on the bed for strength. I used 30% concentric infill on everything.