1 / 3
Tautog, Sheepshead, Drum fishing jigs — zdjęcie 1
1 / 3

Tautog, Sheepshead, Drum fishing jigs

Zamów wydruk tego modelu

Obliczymy ostateczną cenę na podstawie wybranego pliku. Sprawdzisz ją i zaakceptujesz przed płatnością.

Zapisane na tym urządzeniu.

This is a fishing jig modeled after a popular jig that's fairly expensive.

Ocena
0 / 5
Polubienia
6
Pobrania
71
Wydruki
0
Wyświetlenia
526
Oceny
0

Aktualizacja u źródła:

Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
Other Ideas
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

These are models based around a popular fishing jig head used in tog and sheepshead fishing. I use a lot of the commercial version of this and wanted to find a cheaper way to get my hands on a lot of them. This should do the trick.  

These are “mother molds” that are used to mold silicone molds that are then used to mold the lead.  I used SmoothOn MoldMax60 (8oz for each pair of molds required for a single size) to create the molds after seeing numerous posts on fishing tackle forums that this was reasonable even though the silicone is only rated to around 560F. No release agent was used when pouring the silicone. I pressed a piece of ¼ inch plywood that was just shy of 2.5x3.5in into the silicone after it was poured. This will give me something non-compliant to clamp before pouring the lead. I let them cure for 48 hours before carefully prying the cured silicone from the printed molds. 

All of these are modeled with the 32824NP Mustad hooks in mind. 1oz uses the 3/0 hook. 3/4oz uses the 2/0 hook. 1/2oz uses the 1/0 hook. 

When you're pouring lead, please be sure to use adequate PPE - eye protection, 100-rated respirator (not just a mask), long clothes, and at least leather shoes (cloth shoes will just burn/melt if you get lead on them).

Please note that BOTH the A and B parts are required to make a functioning mold. 

Printing notes: I printed at “.10 speed detail” on my Prusa MK4 in PLA. PETG should also be suitable. 4 perimeters with 10% gyroid fill

Pouring notes: Pour ‘em quick. If you’re slow, the lead will solidify in the sprue and you'll get a half-filled jig head. It also works better if you're working multiple sizes at the same time. As the silicone gets really hot, it starts to expand a little. This makes it harder to keep the mold clamped tight. You can do it, it's just harder.

Powder finish notes: Heat with a heat gun instead of a blowtorch like I did the first time. 1-2 seconds in the heat then a quick dip into the fluid bed. Multiple thinner coats works better than a single thick coat (from having too much heat). This also helps keep the paint out of the eyes. Cook for 400F for a half hour (or whatever your powder paint instructions say) to cure and make the finish incredibly durable.

Tagi