FlexiDinos Gregor the flexi Ankylosaurus print in place articulated dinosaur

Edit, 31. 7. 2026: Updated the MOST 1:100 version and edited cover image. Added MOST 1:100 description.

MOST 1:100 explained

MOST stands for Magnetic Open Source Toys. 1:100 is the scale. These are the rules:

1. 1 real meter = 1 toy cm

2. Use ∅ 5mm × 2mm neodymium magnets

3. North is always facing upwards

It's easy: 1 meter in the real world is 1 centimeter in the toy word. A 5 meter car becomes a 5 centimeter toy. A 2 meter tall hero becomes a 2 centimeter action figure. To ensure compatibility between all toys the north pole of the magnets always faces upwards.

It's like Gridfinity but for toys! You can read the long version here.

WARNING:

SWALLOWING MAGNETS MIGHT BE FATAL!!!

Magnets and 3D printed parts are in no way suitable for small children. They might break and leave sharp edges, so make sure the kids are old enough to know what they're doing! 

Also make sure you don't have a steel nozzle inserted as it might pick up the magnets while printing and ruin something.

Print instructions

1) Open the .3mf as project in PrusaSlicer, adjust settings according to your taste. Every pause is pre-dialled. Skip step 2) and insert the magnets as explained in step 3).

2) If you're more of a masochist tinkerer use the .stls, navigate to the according layers, insert a pause in the slicer (right klick on the slider at the according layer in PrusaSlicer).

3) Insert the magnets according to the screenshots below. North always faces up according to the orientation of the model – hence the different orientations for the inserts. Determine north as explained in this article. 

4) Get Thag the dino jockey / snack and start riding!

Thanks to all my club members for making this possible. If you like the model, consider becoming one yourself. 

If you want to support me without costs, tell your friends and share my models on your social media! <3

If you have questions and inputs get in touch! Happy printing!

Strike and Maim!

(See below for instructions on printing and finishing)

Edit, 10. 12. 2025: I switched out model files to have improved connectors of the joints. This should improve pritability and stop cones from slipping out of their sockets.

An all time favorite for everyone who thinks Triceratops is mainstream: The good old Ankylosaurus. Where its thagomizer reaches, nothing remains. Designed for battle, but also practical for major renovation work, the Ankylosaurus is a welcome guest at any demolition party.

Just some quick design notes, you can see the whole design process here if you want to dive down the rabbit hole. Since this is a very wide dinosaur, this model had to be designed without the usual approach of it lying on its side. So I had to come up with a way to print it on its back and still have a curved shell on top. It took me about three weeks to come up with the first two joints, and I didn't know if they would work, so you can imagine how happy I was when they finally did. 

This model is a show piece. So if you want to impress your 3D printing friends, just show them the back of this model and tell them you sawed your print bed into 3 pieces to get this result or something :D

UPDATE: As usual I raffled off the name among my club members and Ben Kenobi got to name it, so say hello to Gregor! Thanks for your choice Ben!

How to print the model and loosen the joints

The head is only attached to the bed by the horns, which gives it very little contact area and it tends to come off easily, so I added a brim version that you should definitely use. I couldn't get a single prototype done without it, so don't be too proud to use it. The brimless version worked well for me with PETG, so you can give it a try. 

The joints need to be broken when he gets off the bed. Just take the third joint and apply pressure from the front of his head. WATCH YOUR FINGERS! You don't want them in the gaps between the first two lower joints when they break! Don't repeat my mistakes.

That should do the trick. It's pretty tight at first, but the more you play with it, the wigglier it gets.

As mentioned before, I wanted to show off with this model. So there are very little tolerances and this makes it not as wobbly in the vertical axis as my previous models. I'm not quite sure if I like it, but since I've never designed a model lying on its back before, I'll go with it. Let me know what you think and I'll consider it for my next FlexiDinos.

And since I have an appropriate joke of my own making, I'll just drop it. It only works in Austrian German, so only one person may get it. But anyway: Was sagte Crudla, als sie die Fleischerei betrat? “An Kilo Saurus bitte!”

I can't stress this enough, so I'm going to write it down here: FlexiDinos are in no way suitable for small children. Parts can break off and leave sharp edges, so make sure your children are old enough to know what they're doing before letting them play with FlexiDinos!

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If you like this model, I have created a lot of other cool FlexiDinos. You can support my work and get exclusive stuff by becoming a Club Member.

• Stegosaurus Günther and his younger brother Fünther (the 2025 Update)

• Triceratops Theobald

• Pterodactyl Bertha

• T-Rex Tessa (free) and an improved Version (paid model)

• Brachiosaurus Ginko (paid model)

• Ankylosaurus Gregor (paid model)

• Velociraptor / Deinonychus / Utahraptor JJ (paid model)

• Dimetrodon Karli (paid model)

• Parasaurolophus Filip (paid model)

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You want a new model for free every month that is normally hidden behind the paywall? Check the FlexiDinos Model of the Month regularly!

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