Woodworking Moxon Bench Vise.

This vise clamps to the edge of a bench to be used and removable for storage out of your way.

Wooden Jaws: The size of the vise jaws is your discretion. For the vise jaws I used 2x3 studs glued together. After trimming they were about 5" high by 1 & 3/8" thick. The lengths were 20" front jaw and 26" rear jaw. The clamp down holes are 1 ½" diameter spaced 1 ½" from ends and bottom of the long jaw. The screw holes for the bushings are 6" from the ends and centered down the board. The jaws are clamped together for the bushing holes to be drilled, 1" for perfect alignment. The jaws inside can be coated with a material to prevent slippage and marring the workpiece. I used adhesive 4x4" thin cork pads. bought from Amazon. Way more than I needed but will probably be used in other projects. Amazon.com: 60 Pack 4 x 4 Inch Cork Squares Self-Adhesive Cork Tiles Mat with Strong Adhesive-Backed for Wall Decor and DIY Adhesive : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Hardware: This was designed to use 5/8-11 threaded rod. I got a 24" piece from Rural King.  along with two nuts. I had the wood screws in stock. The eight screws are 1 ¾" by 5/32" diameter round head. I used two screws for the crank handle. From memory 4mm x 40mm long. Two nine-inch rods gave me about four-inch clamping distance.

Printed Pieces: Bushings, two sets, I used white to distinguish rear bushing, small flange. Black for large flange. All for the 1"-hole, length is 1 ¼", glue in.  Back shell insert, the nut should slip or press in this piece. Back shell, this covers the insert and screwed to the back of the rear jaw. Vise crank, threaded rod should fit firmly into crank until it bottoms. Use some type of adhesive or epoxy when fitting together. Do not tighten too much to prevent rod pushing through front of crank. Crank knob and cap, optional, screw knob to crank with 4mm screw leaving freedom for knob to spin, glue may be needed on threads, glue cap on end. Spacer, white plastic alignment tool, only one needed, disposable after use. 

Assembly: After bushings are glued in both jaws, align both together with rod, back side of rear jaw (small flange bushing up), insert not needed for this step. Set insert cover over rod onto wood, use white alignment spacer into cover. This should keep everything centered and steady. Put in the four screws and tap with hammer to mark wood. Disassemble and drill marked holes smaller than screw threads (makes it easier to drive screws, also candle wax on threads also helps). Put insert with nut side down toward bushing flange, then place cover and screw down snuggly. Do other side of jaw the same way with spacer. 

Notes: I used a little white lithium grease on the rod threads. I used wipe-on Danish Oil on the wood. The reason for the nut insert is to allow movement to prevent any binding over time and wear. Bushings can always be replaced when worn. Crank is gusseted for strength. Crank knob hole is threaded and deep to use long screw to prevent knob from eventually loosening. 5/8" and 16mm is very close in size, so metrics may work. I do not know about nut. I used an Ender 3 with PEI build plate, 0.20-layers, 3 walls, infill 25. Knob cap 0.10-layer, infill 100.  My inspiration to make this came from a YouTube video by Stumpy Nubs.  (2) Never worry about clamping your work again! - YouTube