Acoustic-Electric Soprano Ukulele

V5.5 - This is an acoustic-electric version of my recent soprano ukulele design. It includes an under-the-saddle piezo and jack panel to electrify the uke!

Update 9/26/24 - I've got a new and improved Model 3 tuner design.  Check it out.  I've added a new headstock designed to be compatible with them.

Update 10/26/25 - Added a split body version for the acoustic-electric for printing on smaller printers like the A1.

Sound demo and build instructions available in the video below:

Click here for printed ukulele tuners I designed to go with this uke.

I've also designed a mount to hang the uke from the wall.

If you prefer more conventional tuners, the hole patterns match Grover brand ukulele tuners, model 9NB.

In addition to the printed parts, you'll need:

• Strings for a soprano ukulele. I like D'Addario Nyltech.

• 200 mm long, 5 mm diameter carbon fiber rod in the neck for strength. The rod is available from Amazon. If you don't want to use the carbon fiber rod, there is a version of the neck available without the rod hole.

• One Number 4, 1'' wood screw to screw the headstock to the neck

• 8 #2 3/8'' screws are needed if using my printed tuners

• Another four, #2 3/8'' to attach the jack panel to the body.

• Musiclily Basic Transducer Under Bridge Saddle Ceramic Piezo Pickup for Ukulele, 50mm×2.2mm, available from Amazon

• 1/4" (6.35 mm) Output 2.5 mm Input Endpin Jack, Piezo Pickup Jack, also available from Amazon.

Print Settings

• Printer brand: Bambu Lab

• Printer: P1S

• Rafts: No

• Supports: No

• Resolution: 0.12 mm

• Infill: 50%

• Filament brand: Hatchbox, Polylite, Bambu lab, Elegoo

• Filament color: Various

• Filament material: I've printed primarily with PLA as silk and wood PLAs are not as strong as regular PLA.  For example, I use Bambu Lab PLA Basic. The Bambu Lab store give materials properties for different filaments and  bending strength, bending modulus, and tensile strength of PLA Basic are all considerably higher than others like silk.

Notes:

All parts were printed with 5 shell layers and 50% infill for strength. No supports, rafts, or brims required for any part. It's probably possible to reduce the infill to 35% or so, but I haven't tried it.

Various parts were glued together. I like Gorilla brand superglue gel. See the video for pictures of the build.

If the bridge isn't glued properly, it can pull off. I found lightly sanding the bottom of the bridge really helps. I also apply pressure using clamps for 10 or 15 minutes to make sure it is strongly attached.

Most parts were printed with 0.12 mm resolution. However, the fretboard was printed with 0.08 mm resolution. For the fretboard, I paused the print at the top of the fretboard to change filament colors, so that the frets print in a different color than the fretboard.

You'll need :

• Body

• Either the neck, or neck - no rod hole

• Headstock - for model 3 tuners

• Jack panel

• Bridge

• Center ring

• Fretboard

• five fret markers

• Saddle

• Headstock screw cover

• Strap pin (if you want to use a strap)

If using the carbon fiber rod print the Neck. Otherwise print the neck - no rod hole.

If using the Model 3 tuners (my most recent tuner design), use the headstock specifically for Model 3.  If you want compatibility with Grover 9NB commercial tuners, use the original model 2 headstock design, Headstock - with inlay, or Headstock - no inlay.

The saddle is a compensated saddle. When placing it in the slot in the bridge, pay attention to the orientation. The peaks in the middle part of the bridge should be further from the top of the uke, and peaks on the edges of the bridge should be nearer the top.