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Tandy 1000 HX drive tray (Version 2) — zdjęcie 1
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Tandy 1000 HX drive tray (Version 2)

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Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
Accessories
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

You will need the drive tray, and one of the two versions of the mounting bracket provided:
--without the standoffs (as the HX has it's own). This is most likely the one you'll need.
--WITH the standoffs if your HX is missing them (you'll have to figure out how to prep the area where the standoffs used to be, and align and drill holes to screw it to the case from the bottom).

The design works as is, with or without the metal RF shield in place, but you may wish to drill the mounting holes slightly larger to adjust for a more perfect fit. I used 5% cubic infill for the tray (plenty strong enough), and 25% cubic infill for the bracket. The bracket will turn out better if you print it on it's side instead of laying flat.

Also included is the Blender file I used to create it, if you wish to tweak it further.

This can be used to mount the original 1-1/4" height drives used by Tandy, or replacement 1" height drives found in normal PCs (how/if you plug the gap will be up to you).

WARNING: If you do not have the original Tandy floppy drives, please be aware that the HX uses a Shugart pinout with the key on the opposide side of the connector, and sends 5V&12V POWER over the floppy drive ribbon cable. The drives the HX came with were designed for this. If you do not have the original Tandy drives, you'll need to modify the ribbon or use a converter (from djos_1475/Cybernetic_Systems), to use a standard PC floppy drive, or a Gotek USB floppy emulator. Again, you WILL fry a normal PC floppy drive or Gotek if you do not use a converter, or modify the cable appropriately! If you choose to modify your own cable, please check the schematics in the Tandy 1000 HX Technical Reference Manual (available online) for the correct pinout.

Edit 2025-04-20: I've been informed by dJOS from Vintage Computer Forums (dJOS_1475) that the STL files I created are incompatible with Orca Slicer. Could be something funny with the way Blender makes them, I'm not sure, but I've added the "(dJOS_fixed)" corrected files he forwarded me, in case you run into the same issue he did.

Edit 2025-04-21: dJOS pointed out to me that the tray I had uploaded was missing the back part which is necessary for supporting it at the back of the case. This has been fixed, and to avoid any confusion, all .STL files have been replaced with corrected version 2 .STL files.

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