HueForge Stained Glass Roadrunner
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A Lithophane Blending Type “stained glass" Roadrunner print in TWO parts.
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- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
Someone suggested doing a HueForge “stained glass" roadrunner. Though roadrunners have rather unremarkable coloring, the desert southwest provided an interesting background for an AI generated image of one. So, I used the Lithophane Blending Type to make this “stained glass" Roadrunner print in TWO parts. The first part has the natural, blues and black of the foreground. The second part blanks out parts of the bird and provides the reds and yellows for the background.
It uses 0.08mm layers to speed printing with minimal lose in detail.
Part 1
Project: Roadrunner_Part_1.hfp
Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm
The Model is 150x150mm in size
You may print at higher layer heights below the Min Depth of 0.16mm
The Max Depth is 1.2mm and the Actual Depth is 1.3mm
Filaments Used:
PLA PolyLite Natural Transmission Distance: >20
PLA PolyLite Aqua Blue Transmission Distance: 3.5
PLA HueForge Navy Blue 2.2 Transmission Distance: 4
PLA PolyLite Black Transmission Distance: 0.3
This print uses 4 unique filaments
Swap Instructions:
Start with Natural
At layer #2 (0.24mm) swap to Aqua Blue
At layer #8 (0.72mm) swap to Navy Blue 2.2
At layer #14 (1.2mm) swap to Black for the rest.
Part 2
Project: Roadrunner_Part_2_v3.hfp
Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm
The Model is 150x150mm in size
You may print at higher layer heights below the Min Depth of 0.16mm
The Max Depth is 1.2mm and the Actual Depth is 1mm
Filaments Used:
PLA PolyLite Natural Transmission Distance: >20
PLA PolyLite Lemon Yellow Transmission Distance: 6.5
PLA Overture Red Transmission Distance: 4.8
PLA PolyTerra Army Red Transmission Distance: 0.3
This print uses 4 unique filaments
Swap Instructions:
Start with Natural
At layer #2 (0.24mm) swap to Lemon Yellow
At layer #6 (0.56mm) swap to Red
At layer #9 (0.8mm) swap to Army Red for the rest.
Both parts have very thin base layers, so special care is needed to remove them from the print bed. It is probably best to cool them completely before trying.
When joining the two parts back-to-back be sparing with the adhesive, especially in the lighter parts. The adhesive will change the colors if it is not behind the darker parts. I just used some around the darkest parts and around the very edge to keep the glue from showing. If spread thin and uniformly, it should not show too much.