Upgraded pins option V2 & V3 270 Degree Geared Hinges.

The 270 degree hinges these new pins were designed for are here :- 270 Degree Geared Hinges for K1/K1 Max/K1C. 

Update November 1st 2024:- added some fatter link/connectors. Originals (by design) were thinner to allow the pins to be seen and also guarantee no sanding/post processing would be needed with an out of spec print. Newer fat links are labelled as ‘Fat’. Stl files supplied are in pairs, they are

‘fat upper slot links’ for the upper slot of both hinges 

‘Fat lower slot clips’ for the locking pin type lower slots

I've added the pins here as I didn't want to complicate or add anything more to the main hinge page. But these pins are a useful upgrade and were worth offering as an option. There is also another further upgraded set of pins using M4 screws for attaching the end plates. The M4 set is here for those wanting that option instead Optional screw type end cap connection pins.

The hinges themselves were designed to not need glue. But the pins I originally created for them were straight pins, meaning without the top end lock in place, the pins were free to drop through the hinge without end caps fitted. I couldn't see any reason why that top end lock would ever not be present. It was designed to be a very tight fit (and there was always the option to add glue if desired). But I remember seeing a comment on another guys 270 degree hinge set asking about the potential for the pin being able to fall through. That question obviously stuck in my head and niggled me, so I created these new pins as an extra security blanket for anyone else who might have similar concerns.

This amended pin set keeps the pins in place even with both top and bottom end caps removed. For those using my 270 degree hinges, these pins are a straight swap with the originals along with using the clip from this file set in place of the originals closed loop link in the lower slot of the gear segment.

To fit the pins:- Close the printer door and tape it in place against the frame to prevent any accidents.

The shorter segment of the pin faces down. Push the pin through the hinge piece catching the link in the upper slot of the gears until the pin is showing the same amount top and bottom. Align the other half of the hinge as straight as possible with the gears meshed and slide the other pin through catching the other end of the link. 

When fitting the securing clip in the lower gear slot, push it onto the recesses of both pins at the same time and make sure it clicks fully home to lock both pins into place. Don't clip it on one pin with the intention of rotating it into place on the other pin as that was not an option planned for (it may work, but it wasn't planned if it does). The pins should rotate around in the clip when fitted. If it is too tight it may be forced off the pins when the hinge is opened. Make sure when first using the hinge that this clip stays in place. If it does push free? remove the clip and enlarge the offending hole/s a little with sandpaper or a sharp knife. Of the 6 sets I printed, only one individual part suffered from being too tight.

Finally fit the top and bottom ends caps to the pins to complete the hinge.

Repeat the same procedure for the second hinge.

For reference, the end caps and the upper link are what primarily hold the two main hinge parts together. The lower clips primary task is to hold the pins in the hinge while the end caps are off but they also provide additional strength to the final integrity of the hinge. The locking clip alone would likely not hold the doors weight. The solid link above the split clip does still provide a safety net if the end caps are not in place. The hinge relies on all 4  components for maximum integrity (with the gears themselves adding some additional assistance supporting the doors weight as they are tightly meshed when the hinges are assembled fully). 

The pin set STL provided here has 2 pins and one lower gear slot clip and needs to be printed twice in order to upgrade both hinges.

To remove the need for support on the pins caused by the recesses, I removed the 90 degree overhangs by adding a chamfer to the pin where it meets the upper part of the recess.

For these pins and the clip, I printed them without supports at 40 percent (gyroid) infill at  .1 layer height with 3 perimeters.