Yet another Katana (Telescopic Collapsing easiest to print)

There are many more like it, but this one is mine.
The goal of this design is good printbility with sword like profile. So curvature and reasonable taper, while having all QOL features like changeable blade and guard, and way to lock so it won't extend while carried.

About the sword:
The sword is 28cm collapsed and 105 extended. I tried to make it similar proportion to an actual katana. The blade is rounded but still looks the part. Plus, it’s less likely to break and safer to hit stuff with it. Please don’t smack people with it tho. At least not without consent.

What’s different of this model:
- Curved profile. Tried to make it more like a real katana.
- Reasonable taper (Segments only taper at the two ends, should look beefier than other designs).
- Easy to replace blades and guard.
- Separate handle and guard pieces for coloring.
- Lockable. Sliding the guard plate halfway can block the sword from extending unexpected.
- Easier printing. No more stuck blades after print.

Misc:
Non zipped files are for 0.1mm tolerance.
Versions of different tolerances included as zip files.
step and f3d files included.

Trivial:
The end cap says “bujinkan” in Japanese. It’s a Japanese martial art that I’m learning, and I made this months ago to show off to friends in the dojo. Plus I didn’t like the models online. It was my first 3dprint project and my proudest. Printed some more as gifts later, and I thought I may as well upload it and see if anyone likes it.  
And yes, the rounded blade was intended to be used in training. However, a hollow sword was never going to be strong enough for that. But hey, it looks cool.

Changelogs:
9/5/24: 
Omg this made it to thingiverse front page! And to think I forgot this model for 6 months cos I thought no one wants it. Fixed the description a bit and added options for different blade tolerance.

9/18/24:
Better, longer overlaps between blades. Should make the blade more durable and eliminate sqeeking. When I tried it the blades broke in half before the join between blade fails. Also Improves tolerance. This does mean the sword is slightly larger

Printing suggestions:
- For the blades: change wall order to outside first so they're smoother. Print up right with brim. The all-in-one model has a bit of support to make them less likely to topple.
- Tolerance: I suggest 0.2 for PLA. 0.2 or 0.1 for PETG. 0 may be necessary for some PETG prints. If it's still too tight/loose you can play with slicing tolerance settings. Print 2 blades for tolerance test if you're not sure.
- Material: I tried both PETG and PLA. PETG is much better at least for the blade, but PLA works as well. PETG is softer so tighter tolerance.
 

Post print

If the blades slide out or squeak when shaked, add tape to the overlapping parts like in the picture. If blades don't fit, try deburring the bottom of the blades. Elephant's foot can mess up blades' tolerance
If cap/guard is hard to slide on, sand/cut the locking bit down a bit.