3ft Tall C9 Christmas Bulb Light

UPDATE 2024-1222

Bottom of the bulb was too small. Updated (printing test now) updated the cross member to fit new size and to a better design.

Hole in the clip are too small shrank them to 3mm.

Half inch #8 would likely be better (¾ works but is longer than needed)

I have printed the base socket components. they work and fit very well if you already printed the holes in the clip are a wee too large (file updated) just add some plastic into the hole to tighten it up a bit) 3mm drill bit to pre drill other holes at all the dimple mark points.

top of bulb prints well and is stable but shift to 0.1mm layer height at 260mm. bottom “warps” as it prints but does work. I made some changes to try to correct this. also I gave up on a seamless joint. its WAY to hard to joint them. they now have an overlapping joint. (new files adjusted 2024-1222)

I also updated the “cross” part. it has a hole in the center to keep the light string aligned without so much stress and a “hook” to hang the battery box. since I had to enlarge the bottom of the bulb I also has to enlarge the cross piece.

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Likely you have seen the 3ft Tall giant C9 Bulb at homedepot and on yourtube?

I can't afford them but I have tons of plastic so… Here you go

UNTESTED I have NOT printed yet (starting tonight)

Designed for Vase Mode in PETG with a 1mm Nozzle

Bulb just print in vase use variable layers to increase speed

BASE Socket. print 15mm with 20% infill no bottom or top them switch to vase mode. This way it has a solid base and you can put something inside (bag of sand rock brick bottles of water etc..) to hold it down.

The “CLIP” does not print in vase mode

the Interface 2.4mm of solid layers then vase mode. (0.4mm 6 bottom layers)

there are DIMPLES on the model. use a 5 or 6mm drill bit to put holes at them all

reach inside and use #8 ¾" screws (truss head !!!!) to secure the clip and the interface section to the socket base

the one tricky part is the bulb halves if you can print 300x300x600 you can print this as one piece. bring both into slide and align origins and merge.

the tricky part is its  1mm flexible interface you have to glue together. it will be finicky. but if I make any sort of interface here it will be VERY obvious since your going to illuminate it from the inside !!

the bulb is a bayonet fit into the socket.

buy a battery powered “timer” fairy light string. print the hook (also not vase mode) secure with glue or screw to top of bulb. “wind” the light string into loops the length of the bulb twist tie tape or zip tie together into a “rod” of lights and HANG that from the hook. turn on the lights when it gets dark. this is why you need timer lights. will run for 6 hours and turn off for 18hr

there is a 12pack on amazon for $18 that is $1.50 a pop. I can only afford to make one of these right now so I spent $5 on something a little nicer for better run time get 2 x 3xAA battery holders and wire in PARALLEL with the LED units 3xAA this will give you 9xAA 3 sets in parallel that should run long enough for the season and is a lot cheaper than D cells.

I added a CROSS print this and just stick it inside the bulb. it should “rest” on the vase. put it out of your way if you need to reach up inside settle it in place and twist tie or zip tie your dangling end of your light set so it does not swing around and stays centered.

I will make a different interface component for those that want to hard wire for mains power or 12v power using E26/27 led bulbs (1 or 2 watt should be plenty)

Affiliate links for the stuff I am using to make mine work

Single Light Set https://amzn.to/4iHv1VU
Screws https://amzn.to/49Szml2

12Pack Simpler Lights https://amzn.to/3BzoxIa (cheaper than aliexpress even !! $1.50 Each)

AA Battery Holders https://amzn.to/4h0vwZR

REMEMBER I HAVE NOT PRINTED THIS YET !!!