2009-2018 and 2019+ Ram Classic headlight, upper and lower mounting tabs
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If your lower mounting tabs have broken off, print one of these and epoxy it in place.
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Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Automotive
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution
Most headlight housings are made of PP T30, which is polypropylene and 30% talc. To do this repair properly, use polypropylene filament to print these parts. Polypropylene Carbon Fiber filament is available on Amazon and might be worth trying.
I would recommend that you mask off the bumper area below the headlight and epoxy the tab, with the headlight installed in the truck.
Put the headlight in place, and if installing a lower tab, adjust it using only the upper tab/screw. Snug the upper screw to hold the headlight in place. Align it and snug down the lower screw, then use a polypropylene filler rod and heat gun to spot plastic weld the lower tab in place in a couple different spots, This way, the epoxy and lower tab hardens in its final resting position, for a stress free install. After it cools and hardens, remove the light and finish plastic welding it.
The upper tabs will require you to use a Dremel, sander or something to remove all of the existing tab. Install using a similar, but opposite method as you would for the lower tab. Position the headlight in the truck first and use the lower adjuster/tab/screw to adjust the headlights position to level, then snug the lower screw. Once the headlight is adjusted and the lower screw snugged, install and align the upper tab/screw, snug the screw, then spot plastic weld the tab in a couple spots. Remove the light and finish plastic welding it. This will result in a stress free installation, with no forces acting on the freshly repaired tab.
There are several versions. Upper tabs for each side, and two versions of the lower tabs. The first version of the lower tab installs over an existing stump, assuming your tab broke off leaving a fairly long stump to work with. You may have to cut/sand/grind the existing stumps length, or use CAD to modify the provided .stp version of the tab.
The solid version of the lower tab is to replace a tab that has broken off very close to the housing. In this case, you will probably need to use a Dremel to sand off the excess stump flush with the housing.
If your headlight has both the upper and the lower tab missing, you may need to fabricate some shims to push into the headlight/fender gaps to hold it in position so you can align and align and epoxy both the upper and lower tabs.
I didn't bother adding the mirrored versions of the .stp file. Your slicer can mirror them as well as mine can.
The upper stump style tabs have built-in supports, so you shouldn't need to add any. There is some short bridging that most quality printers can handle with ease. D-S is driver side, P-S is passenger side.
