Open R10 Frame

I was a fan of the Catalyst Machine Works 9/10" Macro ‘Merica frame, but I didn’t purchase one before the company closed its doors to consumers.

I put together this frame to have similar features:

• Fits up to 10" propellers
• Utilizes Open Racer canopy spacing
• Full 30x30 ESC fits between the top and bottom plates
• APD 500A PDB also fits between the top and bottom plates
• APD ESC Mounts available for the arms
• The arms fit 16x16mm and 19x19mm M3 mounting patterns

The way I built mine, I used a stacked 5mm arm design. So I have a 5mm arm on top with motor protection, and a 5mm lower arm without motor protection. I also used a single 5mm arm spacer so that the distance between the top and bottom plates is 15mm.

I used a Hobbywing 60A 30x30 ESC between the top and bottom plates, with the 20x20 Flight Controller mounted on top plate with the HDZero VTX.

Required Carbon:

• QTY 1: 4mm Top Plate
• QTY 1: 4mm Bottom Plate (Countersunk holes for 20x20 and 30x30 mounts) 
• QTY 4: 5mm Top Arm
• QTY 4: 5mm Bottom Arm
• QTY 4: 5mm Arm Spacer

Required Hardware:

• QTY 8: M5 x 25mm bolts
• QTY 8: M5 Riveting nuts
• QTY 4: M3 x 10mm standoffs to mount the Open Racer Canopy
• QTY 8: M3 x 6 or 8mm Canopy mounting screws
• ESC and FC Mounting hardware
• QTY 16: M3 x 12 or 14mm Motor screws

Prints:

• Open Racer Canopy of your choice: https://github.com/OpenRacer/OpenRacer/tree/master/cad

My Build:

• Double Stacked 5mm Arms
• HDZero Micro Cam Canopy
• HobbyWing 60A 30x30 ESC
• HobbyWing F7 20x20 FC
• Brother Hobby 2812 1050kv motors

Potential Modifications:

• Stacked 6mm or 8mm arms for larger 3115 sized motors
• You can use M5 Lock nuts instead of Riveting Nuts if you choose, just use the Lock Nut version of the bottom plate.
• I did design an Arm mount for the APD 80A individual ESCs if you wanted to run higher than 6S voltage