Radio Console
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These files are for assembling a replacement center console in a 1999 Ford Expedition that holds radios, switches, etc.
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Updated at source:
Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Electronics
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
These models are fairly specialized for my application, however the files may be able to be modified to fit related applications.
This 3D printed console is designed to fit in a 1999 Ford Expedition with the narrow center console (the front seats have arm rests). I removed the OEM console cover and the tray inside. A frame was then created that covered the opening in the center console and this is what the rest of the parts are mounted to.
All of the printed parts have used ABS, and they have stood up to multiple years of use in a vehicle that sees off-road use. Many parts have been printed with 90-100% infill due to the structural use. Parts have been designed to reduce the need for support, and the support that is needed is easy to remove and in non-cosmetic areas.
Equipment that I have integrated into this project:
- Kenwood TM-V71 amateur radio
- TYT-9000D amateur radio
- Midland MXT400 GMRS radio
- Uniden PRO 510 XL CB radio
- Trigger Six Shooter wireless controller switches
- 16mm Latching Push Button Switch (e.g. Amazon ASIN: B07RLP1TVB)
- Digital Voltmeter (e.g. Amazon ASIN: B088TGNTFS)
- Ethernet panel mount extension (e.g. Amazon ASIN: B06Y4J9MZ4)
Items used for construction:
- Thread Forming Plastic Screws, McMaster-Carr part number 96001A156
- Aluminum Angle stock, 1-1/2 in. wide x 1/16 in. thick (Home Depot)
Frame
The frame is specific to the first gen Ford Expedition with the narrow style center console. It is designed to be printed in 2 pieces, and then held together and mounted to the sides of the center console by the aluminum angle. It has pilot holes throughout designed for the thread cutting screws (note the pilot hole locations are useful for marking where to drill the screw holes, and the wall layers around the small holes give material for the screws to bite). The screw holes will need to be drilled to an appropriate size for the screws, ~5/64.
The frame forms a 6.25in wide x 11in long rectangular opening that the modular inserts slide into. The modular inserts are mounted by the 0.375in wide flats along the long edges of the opening. The front of the frame, the curved area, is recessed to accept a cover plate and includes a hole for a bulkhead mounted ethernet extension cord (microphone jack for the Kenwood radio).
Cover Plate
The cover plate is the modular component at the front of the console. It is 0.125in thick and is primarily cosmetic, although it does hold an ethernet port, my callsigns debossed, and a spot for a Ram Mounts size B diamond ball base. The cover plate is attached to the frame with four of the thread forming screws.
Switch Module
The switch module is one of the modular options. I have two versions of the switch module:
- The first is designed to fit the Trigger Wireless Controller 6 Shooter wireless switches. This module is designed to hold the wireless controller's base so the controller can stay charged. the wireless controller is magnetic, so it can be easily removed if desired. This module also included a bank of 16mm latching switches and a set of LEDs that I used for controlling a custom traffic advisor light bar.
- The second design eliminated the wireless controller and utilized more of the 16mm switches. It also incorporated two digital voltmeters to monitor the car's battery and a second auxiliary battery, a momentary switch to turn on the voltmeters, and a dimmer knob to adjust the switches backlighting. There are graphics and text debossed to label things. Originally I printed the first 2 layers in a dark color, and then switched to white to highlight the text, but recently utilized a printer with multi-filament support to fill in the text in a contrasting color.
Radio Modules
The radio modules were designed to hold specific radios. These radios have a speaker mounted on the top or bottom of the radio body, so a duct is included that directs the sound out of the top of the console. Each radio module is held to the frame with 4 thread tapping screws, and multiple modules can be printed together to increase rigidity.
Note: The Kenwood TM-V71 has the connector the microphone on the side of the body. This connector is routed to the cover plate with a short panel mount ethernet extension. It is a tight fit inside the console, and depending on the desired location on the frame the cable may interfere with the structure of the console wall.
Other info:
It may be necessary to check/adjust the holes for mounting the modules to the frame. If the parts are printed solid or nearly solid with extra walls and top/bottom layers, then holes for the screws can be drilled during assembly.
Fitting the frame to the center console wall was done with the OEM console hardware:
- Remove the OEM console lid
- Remove the OEM console tray, save the screws.
- Cut the aluminum angle down to two 10-10.5in lengths.
- Place about 3 inches of painter's tape around the top edge of the console wall, on either side, and against the rear console part.
- Position the rear of the frame (flat end) on top of the console walls and against the rear console wall. Mark on the painter's tape where the recess on both sides of the underside of the frame is. Remove the frame.
- Place the aluminum angle over the edges of the console walls so that one edge of the angle is inside the console, and the other edge is flat and outside the console. Align the angle to the marks made in step 5.
- Mark the angle where the 4 screws need to go to fasten the angle to the inside of the console walls (where the OEM tray used to be fastened.)
- Drill the holes in the aluminum angle. The screws have a large head; oversize the holes to allow some flexibility
- Attach the aluminum angles to the console walls.
- Place both parts of the frame onto the aluminum angle and then center and position the frame. Carefully trace out the frame onto the aluminum angle. The angles will need to be cut and sanded so they do not extend beyond the edge of the frame.
- Taping or clamping the angle to the frame could help keep everything aligned.
- Drill through the aluminum angle into the bottom of the frame with a 5/64 drill bit. these will be the pilot holes for the thread forming screws.
- Enlarge the holes in the aluminum angle only, with a 3/32 drill bit.
- Attach the aluminum angle to the frame with the thread forming screws.
- Attach the frame to the console walls with the OEM screws.