Parallax - A Bullpup Foxbat Remix

Print orientations: 

For the parts that I have not changed follow Sillybutts print recommendations. For the Parts that I have added, I will show the print orientations I recommend and also my recommended settings.

First up is the stock I recommend 5 walls with 30% infill. I recommend painting supports on the area seen in the picture to the left.

For the side prime grip, I recommend 6 walls and 50% infill. You really don't want this to break. You should paint supports around the base of the grip as I did in the picture to the left.

The main grip is kinda a pain to print. It should be printed at around 4-5 walls with 30%infill. I also recommend turning your support pattern angle to 45 degrees. This makes the supports come off way cleaner. The main grip needs to have support painted in 4 places. You can see 3 of them in the picture to the left. However, you also need to paint support on the bottom seen in purple in the image below. 

The lower pic rail can be printed on 3 walls with 25% infill and requires no supports. 

The trigger can be printed on 4 walls with 20% infill and requires a support to be painted on as seen in the picture to the left. 

The Back Pic rail can be printed with 5 walls with 25% infill and requires no supports. 

For the rest of the parts not mentioned follow the print recommendations of Sillybutts in the original Foxbat build guide.

Assembly:

Parallax requires all the same hardware as the standard Foxbat. Assembly is also mostly the same. You will assemble the top slide section of the blaster just like normal. The only difference is that you have to assemble the lower and front blocks in a specific order to get them together.

Step one is to assemble the slide, catch, and plunger. Nothing here is really different from the original Foxbat so you can follow the instructions from SillyButts. At the end, your assembled slide should look like this. Note you should also install the barrel retention nut and screw into the front block before proceeding. 

Step Two

Lower Assembly

The first step is to assemble the trigger linkage. Put both pins into the trigger yoke. 

Now you are going to take the back block and slide it down the guide rails on the grip until it reaches the end. You should also add the trigger spring to the backblock.

Next, position the trigger linkage assembly into the trigger well and engage the trigger spring with the trigger.

Now you need to insert the front block down the guide rails of the grip. At the same time, the trigger linkage should slide into the front block along its guide rails. You should also be able to add in the clevis pin that holds in the catch pusher

Step Three

Putting the two halves together

First slide the lower assembly from step two into the upper assembly from step one. It can help to put the barrel in after this to keep the two halves together.

First, attach one of the side panels and add in all of the highlighted screws. Next, you are going to repeat that spet but for the opposite side panel. 

The next step is to slide the lower pic rail (highlighted) over the front block and secure it in place by screwing the muzzle on afterward.

The last required piece is the back picture rail. This piece is secured using the same screws as the other plates. Just add them into the highlighted holes on both sides of the blaster. 

Now you have a complete parallax with all of the required parts installed. 

There are more add-on parts you can add if you wish to do so. 

The first of those parts is the stock pictured below.

The stock will require 2x m3 hex nuts and 2x m3x25mm screws to install. It is long enough that when the blaster is shouldered the slide will not hit you while priming. 

The next add-on is the side priming grip pictured below.

The side priming grip will require 1x m3 hex nut and 1x m3x25mm screw to install. As a word of caution, I haven't tested this grip on anything higher than a 788 spring so your mileage may vary at higher spring loads. That being said because of the print orientation it should be relatively strong.

The last add-on I have included is these side detail panels (highlighted in the picture below)

I highly recommend adding a pause layer in your slicer and changing the filament out for the details on top of the panel. This will make them look much better on the slide and add more texture to the blaster overall. These little panels can be secured with just a little dot of superglue spread around the back of the panel.