Toilet Cistern Flush Arm Retaining Screw
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Simple retaining screw to prevent toilet flush arm slipping off or out of position
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Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Bathroom
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
Replaces disgusting steel screw which had rusted to hell and was always a nuisance to remove when servicing the toilet.
I only did this as a joke, something to do in a few minutes on a filthy wet British Winter's day. I'd just replaced the ball valve washer and cleared a blockage in the supply valve, and saw the lever arm's screw was collapsing due to severe corrosion. Stupid place to put a steel screw isn't it? Obviously it's going to rust like mad in the wet environment of a toilet cistern DUH!
I knew I wouldn't have any brass self tappers that sort of size, and it seemed dumb to put steel back in there. So rather than go into the freezing garage on a mission to find something suitable in brass to cut down and make fit, I brewed a nice coffee and fired up Fusion360 to see what I could find. Sure enough, it has “inch tapping threads for plastic" available, so I found a suitable one (Size #10, Designation 10-14, Class 2B, if you're interested), applied it to a simple rod, added a head, and printed it.
I didn't think for a moment that it would fit, or work. But it did! In fact it works so well that the screwdriver slot I designed into it was completely unnecessary. Finger tight is plenty to hold the arm secure.
If you decide to use this model, I suggest a smear of grease on the threads so it's less likely to get stuck later, because if you attack it with any force with a screwdriver it'll probably snap and then you'll have to use a drill to get the bits out, although that wouldn't be too difficult anyway, just annoying :o) User beware!
When I'd finished laughing about how stupidly easy that was, I though I might as well upload it in case anyone else is in a similar situation.
I used 0.2mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle, PLA+, no support or adhesion other than 2 line brim to clean the nozzle. 50% Grid Infill to give a bit of extra strength. My slicer default is 3 walls which seems fine, you could add a wall and make it 4 if you like, that would mean the threaded section is all walls.
Please Like this model if you find it useful.
If you REALLY like it, https://www.buymeacoffee.com/gigabeast :o)