Vampiric Maker Coin
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A sleek red and black maker coin to represent Ivan's aesthetic. Bold, stylish, and imperial.
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Updated at source:
Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Other Art & Designs
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
Summary (General Guidelines):
- All coins must be made from an initial revolve resulting in a coin that is 6 cm in diameter and 1.25 cm in thickness.
- Must not require ANY supports, (no supports).
- Should be gear-esque in nature.
- Must slope downwards towards the center in some fashion.
Summary (My MakerCoin Notes and Visions):
- Line tool and spline tool for the initial sketch
- Start with a revolve
- Last tutorial used two circles instead of the spline tool. After, he trimmed.
- Fully define the sketch
- Use the line on the origin in the sketch as the axis to revolve
- Create a new plane for your sketch that is going to be the logo on the maker coin
- Another revolve for the gear shape outer spikes
- Circular Pattern
- Pattern the Feature
- Show your sketch
- Equal spacing between gear shift spikes
- Fillet the outer spikes and fillet the corners in the logo

Main Inspiration: https://www.printables.com/model/434651-loz-makercoin (see picture above)
- Zelda coin uses a Cut-Revolve tool
- Zelda coin uses the Mirror tool for the sketch on the coin
- Zelda coin uses the Wrap tool
Overview & Background:
- My main goal was to add engraved designs spanning all over the coin and signifying it as mine. I also decided to play with negative space and how it should be filled in.
Initial Form of the Coin Design:
Initial Sketch for the Revolve:

Initial Sketch for the Revolve Cut:

Then fillet:

Explanation: Make a sketch on the Front Plane that will revolve around itself to form the initial coin shape, make sure there's a dent on top for a bowl-like shape. Make a trapezoidal sketch that you will Revolve Cut with around the edge of the coin. You want to fillet the newly-made inner corners while making sure to leave space for the text that is going to wrap around later on. The outer base of the trapezoid is 0.85 cm and the inner base is 0.75 cm.
Logo Initial Design:
Cutting out a circle and extruding a cross:

(Also do another Revolve Cut using a sketch referencing the FIRST initial sketch)


Sketch of my logo:

New sketches for extrudes:

Explanation: You want to start off by creating a sketch of a circle with it's midpoint on the origin. The diameter should be 5 cm. Then using you constraint box, you can add two perpendicular construction lines that pass through the origin to the sketch of the constraint box. Extrude rectangles that are 1 cm on their shorter side and are centered on those perpendicular lines you should've just added. Create another Revolve Cut as shown to maintain the bowl shape of the coin even with new Extrudes. Create your own sketch for a logo and leave it unhidden to help you create new sketches for extrudes.
Adding Text Around the Coin:

Explanation: Make a new plane that's tangent to the flat surface on the edge of the coin. Create a new sketch on this plane, use the Text tool, and use the Wrap tool. Make sure ALL of your letters fit within the flat part of the edge specifically.
Adding More Cool Engravings:
Sketch and cut out (not all the way through):

Mirror:

Explanation: Make a sketch using arcs to create bat wings to highlight the vampiric theme. Mirror it on a new plane or one of the already existing planes (Top Plane, Right Plane, or Front Plane, whichever works).
Sketching the eyes (the bigger the better):

Cut Extruding in by 0.15 cm:

Sketch Circular Pattern:

Mirror:

Explanation: Sketch out the eyes using arcs and ellipses. The tricky part is cutting out the eyes. You will have to make 2 cuts for each eye creating a new sketch for each half of the eye based around the pupil. That means leave the first sketch unhidden as a reference and trace it to make it easier. If you do so, you will have to make one of your cuts for each other half be angled.

Key Changes:
When first printed, my extrudes in the logo were too skinny on the connection to the cross.


Make sure it's connected overlapping and fillet out those connecting edges too:

Without this change the connection isn't secure enough and will just fall off while being printed. Looks more aesthetically pleasing this way as well.