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RoboForce Wrecker Action Figure — image 1
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RoboForce Wrecker Action Figure

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Model information

License
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

This is a from-scratch rebuild of the RoboForce figure Wrecker. It's about ⅔ the original scale. There's no pneumatic arm action, but I did include the button in the back that uses a ballpoint pen spring and the arms can bend inward using black or grey pipe cleaners. 

I printed the “eyes” piece on my Prusa XL to have yellow with black eyes in a single print. The eyes could be painted in black later with a single-color yellow print. All other parts are single-color prints. Glue is needed for the shoulders, shoulder pegs, hands, weapons, and the spring for the back button. Everything else friction-fits together. 

Parts are oriented for printing and comments on each part indicate if a brim or support is needed. 

Back Button/Trigger:

Cut a ballpoint pen spring down to 11mm in length. Squeeze one end slightly so that it friction presses into the black button piece. Then use a bit of super glue in the top of the body to hold the other end of the spring. Be careful not to glue the button itself to the body!

Arms:

Each arm will be need four of the Arm Segment pieces, one Elbow, two Hands (01 and 02), and two Shoulders (01 and 02). The two parts of the shoulder and hands can use small pieces of filament in the small holes to align them when gluing together later. It's easiest to add the pipe cleaner around the internal pegs before gluing them together.

The Arm Segments have a slight angle, allowing the arms to bend inward. Thread a black or grey pipe cleaner through two Arm Segments, one Elbow, and two more Arm Segments. Loop the top (not separated side) around either the hand or shoulder interior peg. Loop the separated ends of the pipe cleaner around the peg of the other end (hand or shoulder) to hold it together, with a little slack to allow the arms to bend later. Then glue the shoulder pieces and hand pieces together. If you find you have too much slack, twist the hand or shoulder 1 or 2 times to tighten it up.

Back Hook:

The flip-down hook on the back is easy to assemble. Just glue the Hook Peg into the hole on the Hook and let dry. Once dry, it will friction-fit into the hole on the left back side of the Main Body, allowing it to rotate up and down.

Weapons:

Both weapons for this figure need to be printed in parts, with the orientation provided for best results. 

Drill Gun: Glue the Bottom and Top sections together. Orientation isn't that important, unless you want to line the back cross up correctly with the handle, like the original toy.

Spear Gun: Glue the Bottom and Top sections together and be careful to align the two parts so the vertical “fins” in both parts line up together. The Strap part needs to glue in between the “fins” on both the top and bottom, so they need to be aligned. The strap has a slightly indented end that needs to attach to the “Bottom” part for best stability. See the image in this model for details. The Spear Gun Tip needs to be printed with supports, but shouldn't need to be glued in, unless you want to.

Chest and Head Logos:

The Chest Logo.png and Head Logo.png can be printed onto either paper or a silver inkjet sticker sheet. You'll need to resize the Chest Logo to 23mm high by 36.6mm wide. The Head Logo should be resized to 16mm high by 8.6mm wide. I used the free Silhouette Studio software for that. Once printed, cut it out and glue it onto the body. Even if you use sticker paper, I've found adding gluestick to the edges helps it stick better over time. I also sprayed two layers of clear matte spray paint over the sticker to prevent smudging before applying it.

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